Sarajevo and Mostar Itinerary: The Perfect 5 Days in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Sarajevo is one of Europe’s most fascinating and underrated cities. Together with nearby Mostar it offers unique glimpses into the culture and history of Bosnia and Herzegovina. This Sarajevo and Mostar itinerary covers the best things to do in Bosnia and Herzegovina over five unforgettable days

Watch ancient coppersmiths hammering traditional coffee sets in Sarajevo’s hillside streets, gasp at famous divers plunging from Mostar’s rebuilt Stari Most bridge into the rocky Neretva River below, and indulge in delicious burek pastries along the way.

Having travelled extensively through the Balkans as independent travellers, we’ve created this relaxed 4–5 day Sarajevo and Mostar itinerary to help you explore both cities at a comfortable pace. The scenic train journey between them, often considered one of Europe’s most beautiful rail routes, is a must.

Quick Planning Guide

Hanging baskets of flowers surround the entrance to a restaurant in Sarajevo.
Women walking downhill in central Sarajevo

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Itinerary Overview

We suggest spending 5 days minimum on a first visit to Sarajevo and Mostar.

Begin by flying or take the train to Sarajevo. Take the scenic train to Mostar on the morning of Day 4 and transfer to Dubrovnik Airport to fly home on Day 6.

Day 1 – Explore Sarajevo Old Town
Day 2 – Tunnel of Hope & Trebević Mountain
Day 3 – Sarajevo Museums & Culture
Day 4 – Scenic Train to Mostar + Stari Most Bridge
Day 5 – Mostar Old Town & Neretva River

A Sarajevo mosque sits near to a river and leads down to a medieval cobbled street where tourists are walking.

Days 1–3: Exploring Sarajevo

Here’s our suggested day-by-day plan for Sarajevo, though you can easily mix and match activities depending on your interests and pace.

Sarajevo Highlights

➡️ Tunnel of Hope Tour – a hand-dug tunnel built under the airport runway during the siege of Sarajevo.
➡️ Burek cooking class – learn the art of making Bosnia’s most famous pastry.
➡️ Baščaršija Old Bazaar – watch traditional artisans at work

Morning Day 1 – Explore Sarajevo Old Town

If you enjoy history and architecture, start your visit with a locally guided Sarajevo Walking Tour. Local guides often share first-hand stories of life in Sarajevo — both during the war years and today.

Some tours focus more heavily on historic landmarks and events, while others are more cultural. If you love storytelling and deeper historical context, consider booking a highly rated private walking tour.

Latin Bridge

One landmark that appears on almost every tour is the Latin Bridge, which spans the Miljacka River in the heart of Sarajevo.

The famous stone Latin Bridge in Sarajevo where Franz Ferdinand was assasinated.

As we stood at one end of the bridge, we saw the exact spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie were assassinated in 1914 — the event that ultimately triggered the start of World War I.

Afternoon Day 1 – Baščaršija Old Bazaar District

We absolutely loved this part of Sarajevo. The cobbled streets are full of life and everyday activity.

Look one way and you might see a baker preparing trays of fresh burek pastries from scratch. I was welcomed into this small space to see how it’s done. It reminded me of my granny making bread in her warm aga kitchen in England.

A Woman stretching raw dough to make Borek in kitchen in Sarajevo.
Making traditional Borek

Next door, a small repair shop quietly goes about its work, repairing a wheel from a bicycle. Just a few steps further, a master coppersmith delicately hammers intricate designs into traditional coffee sets.

A traditional coppersmith in his workshop in Old Bazaar Sarajevo

For travellers like us who enjoy connecting with local culture, Baščaršija is the perfect place to slow down and soak up Sarajevo’s atmosphere.

The area reflects strong Ottoman influences, blended with Eastern European traditions.

Family run cafés and small restaurants line the streets, making it an ideal place to pause, grab a Bosnia coffee (they are made strong), and watch daily life unfold.

Dinner in Sarajevo

In the evening, enjoy a local wine or beer at what is called a Kafana, chatting with Sarajevo locals. They will give you tips on where to eat and where to avoid.

Day 2: Tunnel of Hope and Trebević Mountain

The scenery around Sarajevo is mountainous and inviting, so spend your second day exploring beyond the city centre.

This is one of the most eye-opening experiences in Sarajevo and should not be missed.

Tour the Sarajevo Tunnel of Hope

Many tours are led by guides who lived through the siege, and hearing their personal stories brings the history of the city vividly to life.

Visitors can walk through around 20 metres of the original Tunnel of Hope, part of the underground passage that stretched nearly 800 metres beneath the airport runway. Outside, there is a board showing photos of the brave people who helped to construct this in secret – telling no-one of their project.

As I stepped inside the tunnel, I felt genuine shivers. During the siege of Sarajevo, this narrow passage became a crucial lifeline for the city.

Steps leading to an underground tunnel used during the Bosnian conflict.
Going into the tunnel
A glass box attached to a wall contains a miniature of the Tunnel of Hope in Sarajevo
Mock up of tunnel

Food, medical supplies and other essentials were smuggled at great personal risk through the tunnel to reach residents trapped inside the besieged city. People also used the passage to enter and leave Sarajevo when no other safe route existed.

A memorial wall with photographs of people who dug the Sarajevo tunnel of hope.

It’s difficult to imagine how frightening daily life must have been for those relying on this hidden highway or survival.

Inside the small museum, there is also a wall where visitors can write and leave a message of ‘hope’.

Having lived in the Former Soviet Union for some years I was touched by the raw emotion in many of these, and added my own post-it-note to the wall, as all visitors are invited to do.

Stop at Sniper Alley

Many tours visit Sniper Alley, one of the most dangerous roads during the siege, where civilians risked their lives simply crossing the street. You can easily see the bullet holes all around you – these are buildings where people lived and still do.

Bullet holes are visible on the external walls of an apartment building on Snipers Alley in Sarajevo.

Visit the Abandoned Olympic Bobsleigh Track

Afterwards, you may stop at sites connected with the 1984 Winter Olympics, including the abandoned Olympic bobsled track on Mount Trebević.

A map explaining the Olympic City of Sarajevo in 1994.

Today the concrete track is covered in colourful graffiti and slowly being reclaimed by nature, creating a striking contrast between Sarajevo’s Olympic past and its wartime history.

Although the area now feels quiet and somewhat neglected, visiting it is a powerful reminder of the city’s resilience and its ability to move forward.

As Mount Trebević is only around 30 minutes drive from the city, it’s popular for ski-ing in winter – if you come in winter and want to give the slopes a try.

Day 3: Discover Sarajevo’s History and Culture

Morning Day 3 – Walk To The Yellow Fortress On Jekovac Hill

Perched on one of the hills surrounding Sarajevo, the 18th century Yellow Fortress site offers some of the best panoramic views of the city. The old cannon fort itself is not much to speak of, but the views make this walk worthwhile.

Woman standing on a Yellow Fortress hill top in Sarajevo with the city behind her and its roof tops in red tile.
Beautiful Views over Sarajevo

At the top you’ll find a small restaurant with outdoor seating. When we visited it was almost deserted, so we had the park largely to ourselves.

It’s a lovely place for a simple picnic if you pick up fresh fruit and bread in town. Sit for a while, relax, and take in the sweeping views of Sarajevo as you reflect on the city’s past, present and future.

A restaurant in Sarajevo with partially covered seating and grassy area for visitors.

Walking back down towards the city centre, we passed fields with rows of white gravestones marking the lives lost during the siege.

A graveyard on a hillside in Sarajevo from the 1980s conflict
Hillside Graves From War

You may already have noticed the “Sarajevo Roses” memorials around the city — red resin-filled scars in the pavement marking where mortar shells once struck. Sarajevo is a city that does not forget its heroes and victims.

A plaque explaining the red splatters (roses) scattered around the city of Sarajevo.
Sarajevo Roses are painted on pavements as a tribute to where people died during the war.
Sarajevo Roses

It’s moving to stop at some of these places and read the small plaques where they exist. Who lived here? What were their stories? Moments like these remind visitors just how recent and painful this history still is.

As you return to your hotel, look out for home-made rakija market stalls and small shops around town.

Rakija market stall in Sarajevo displaying jam jars full of home-made brandy.

Cherry and pomegranate became my favorites after a good bit of tasting. We enjoy sampling local varieties every time we visit a different Balkan country – delicious!

A woman selling fruit and vegetables and bottles of home-made drinks on a street in Sarajevo.

Afternoon Day 3: A Sarajevo Cooking Class

So let’s lighten things a little.  Back in the old city, the rest of the day is a combination of sightseeing, food and wine.

In Sarajevo we discovered (or rediscovered) Borek, this delicious pastry filled with a local white cheese.  It’s common across the Balkans but each place puts a little twist on their recipes.

A freshly baked savory pastry called Borek with a cheese filling.

For meat eaters, Cevapi is a favourite dish. These are a daily staple for residents and well many of us travelers too!

Spending an afternoon learning how to stretch the dough, and making your own Borak, along with other local dishes is a fantastic way to learn more about the culture.

A plate of cheese and vegetables served as a salad in Sarajevo.
Tourist enjoying Bosnia coffee at a cafe in Sarajevo.

Before you have to knead, stretch, roll, shape and bake, your hosts offer regional wines to help ease you into the task 🙂

Day 4 – Scenic Train from Sarajevo to Mostar

Mostar oozes Ottoman legacies, with its famous stone bridge over the Neretva River dating back to 15th and 16th centuries. It’s easy to walk around the incredible mix of mosques, Turkish architectural homes, workshops, cafes, and so much more.

It is a small town and so a couple of days is a good plan for exploring it, but from here you can definitely go further afield within Herzegovina.

Morning Day 4 – The Sarajevo to Mostar Train Ride

This train ride was a highlight of many train journeys I have taken across the Balkans and Europe. Even though the weather was a little gloomy, it didn’t detract from the incredible scenery through this mountain track.

To be honest, we booked the train largely on trust after reading how beautiful the journey was. Some people warned us the route could be unreliable and that the trains were old and prone to breakdowns.

That wasn’t our experience at all. The train was modern, operated by an Italian company, and it departed on time. We felt safe and comfortable throughout the journey.

Homes dot the banks of the Neretva River in Bosnia.

Sitting by the window, I was glued to the views as the train wound past sheer cliffs and followed long stretches of the emerald-green Neretva River.

The train doesn’t travel particularly fast, which actually makes the journey even better — you have plenty of time to soak in the scenery.

If you enjoy photography, this route is a dream.

Forrested hillsides and rivers as seen from a train window in Bosnia
Window Views from The Train

First Impressions of Mostar

Mostar is an easy city to navigate once you arrive. The railway station is about 15 minutes from the city centre – an easy walk if you’re travelling light, or a short taxi ride if you have luggage.

Afternoon Day 4 – Visit Stari Most (Mostar Bridge)

You might wonder why there is so much excitement around an old stone bridge, but once you’re standing here it becomes clear that Stari Most is the heart of Mostar.

The original bridge was destroyed during the war in the 1990s but rebuilt with international support and reopened in 2004. Today it stands as a powerful symbol of reconciliation and rebuilding.

People standing on top of Stari Most bridge in Mostar Herzegovina.
Bridge Mostar

The area around the bridge can be busy and touristy, especially during summer. That said, we enjoyed spending a few hours wandering through the nearby streets and watching the famous bridge divers.

These feel like community events, with many residents joining in the fun. 

These skilled local divers leap around 20 metres from the bridge into the Neretva River below. It’s both a tradition and a profession. Visitors are usually asked to contribute a small donation before the jump — something we were happy to do.

There are also organised diving competitions throughout the summer. When we visited, a televised event was taking place, adding even more excitement to the atmosphere.

Old Bridge Museum

On one side of the bridge you can visit the Old Bridge Museum (small entrance fee), which explains the history of the bridge and its reconstruction. It’s a compact museum but well worth the visit.

Dinner With A River View

Several riverside restaurants offer wonderful views of the bridge.

On a sunny day this a perfect place to enjoy a relaxed late lunch or early dinner while watching the evening light settle over the river.

Women eating at an outdoor cafe and behind her is the Stari Most bridge in Mostar .
Perfect Dinner Spot in Mostar

Day 5 – Explore Mostar Old Town

Our suggested final day in Mostar can be taken at a slower pace. Spend the morning exploring the historic Old Town, then enjoy some time by the river in the afternoon before finishing the day with a relaxed dinner.

Morning Day 5 – Kujundžiluk Old Bazaar

Start your morning with coffee at a pavement café tucked into the quiet streets of Mostar’s medieval Old Town, or on a balcony overlooking the Neretva River.

Afterwards, take time to wander through Kujundžiluk, the historic Old Bazaar. This compact area is full of small shops selling traditional crafts, copperware and local souvenirs (along with the occasional factory-made item).

Copper and silver coffee pots and cups on display in Kujundžiluk Bazaar in Mostar.

I loved browsing these shops and would just say, save some space for a coffee set. I left a few clothes behind to fit this into my carry on and it’s totally worth it! Do I use it? No, but it’s such a perfect memory of our time here.

We think Mostar is small enough to explore on your own, but if you enjoy a guided tour to learn more about history and specific districts, this is highly recommended Mostar Walking Tour.

Visit Sniper Tower Mostar

A short walk away from the busy city centre stands another reminder of Mostar’s recent history – the Sniper Tower.

An abandoned concrete building in Mostar which was once a sniper tower.

Originally a bank building, the structure was taken over as a sniper position during the war. The building is now abandoned, its concrete shell covered in graffiti.

Although it is closed to visitors, walking around the exterior and through the surrounding gardens certainly made me reflect on the conflict that once divided the city.

Grafitti on a building in Mostar depicts a person lying with their feet up in the air in a panicked look.

One thing that caught my eye were the many huge graffiti displays on sides of buildings, many with political messages from the past, and others that looked recent.

There are guided tours that explore this street art in detail, but personally I preferred to wander and interpret it in my own way.

Afternoon Day 5 – Kayak or Float the Neretva River

Local families love spending time on the Neretva River, often floating downstream on tubes during warm afternoons.

Families on floats on a river, and sitting under a bridge structure in Mostar.

If you enjoy being on the water, joining them for a gentle float is a fun and relaxing way to experience the river.

As you can see from our photo above, it can become quite lively — especially on summer weekends.

For a quieter experience, consider a guided kayaking trip in a less crowded section of the river. This is a wonderful way to enjoy the scenery around Mostar from the calmness of the water.

🔍 Click Here to Book Neretva Kayak Tour

Evening Day 5 – Dinner with a View of Stari Most

For your final evening in Sarajevo and Mostar, treat yourself to a memorable dinner.

Several riverside restaurants offer beautiful views of Stari Most, making them perfect places to watch the evening light settle over the river. Many are very touristy but here’s two that we recommend you check out:

  • Hindin Han – traditional Bosnian dishes served in a lovely riverside setting;
  • Piknik Restaurant – hilltop views with excellent food choices.

Another final evening option is a BBQ-style dinner cruise, where you can relax on the water while enjoying local food and sunset views.

🔍 Check Dinner Cruise Availability

Bosnia and Herzegovina – Travel Essentials

If this is your first visit, here are a few practical things to know before travelling to Bosnia and Herzegovina.

  • Currency: The Bosnian Convertible Mark (BAM). It is usually easiest to withdraw cash from ATMs once you arrive. Credit cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and tourist areas. Market stalls, small shops and cafés may prefer cash.
  • Language: Bosnian, Serbian and Croatian are all official languages. English is widely spoken, particularly in Sarajevo, Mostar and other tourist areas.
  • Fun fact: Bosnia and Herzegovina ranks among the world’s top coffee-consuming countries per capita. Expect to see traditional Bosnian (Turkish-style) coffee served everywhere.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is not yet a member of the EU, although it has declared ambitions to join. 

Where To Stay In Sarajevo

For a 3-night stay in Sarajevo, these hotels offer excellent locations and good value.

Where to Stay In Mostar

For your two nights in Mostar, staying close to the Old Town makes exploring very easy.

Old mill heritage building now Hotel-Restaurant Kriva Ćuprijain in Mostar. built from local stone.
Hotel-Restaurant Kriva Ćuprija

Transfer from Mostar to Dubrovnik

Although you can fly from Mostar, options are fairly limited. Many travellers, including myself, choose to depart from Dubrovnik, which is only a scenic drive away.

The journey from Mostar to Dubrovnik takes around 2–2.5 hours, passing through beautiful mountain landscapes.

We’ve used Boots and Bicycles Adventures and Day Trip. Both are reliable and efficient.

Stops along the route can include cliffside monasteries, fruit stands and small family-run cafés. Border crossings are generally straightforward and we have yet to experience significant delays.

Alternatively, consider continuing south into Montenegro to enjoy the stunning Adriatic coastal around Bay of Kotor.

Getting To Sarajevo

Direct flights operate from London Luton with Wizz Air, although schedules vary by season.

Sarajevo is also well connected via major European hubs such as Istanbul, Frankfurt and Paris, with further international connections through cities like Doha and Abu Dhabi.

We’ve also flown here regionally from Belgrade with Serbian Airlines which is another option if you’re doing a longer Balkan Tour.

Center of Mostar Old City Bazaar with narrow streets and local shops

FAQs About Visiting Sarajevo and Mostar

Is It Better to Stay in Sarajevo or Mostar?

Both cities are wonderful destinations in their own right. Mostar is smaller and often visited as a day trip from Croatia or Sarajevo, while Sarajevo is a larger city with enough attractions to fill several days.

Is It Safe to Visit Bosnia?

Yes. In our experience Sarajevo and Mostar are safe destinations for travellers. As in any city, petty crime can occur in busy tourist areas, so it’s sensible to take normal precautions.

How many days do you need in Sarajevo and Mostar?

Ideally 5 days will give you ample time to explore both cities without rushing and to enjoy a scenic train from Sarajevo to Mostar.

Final Thoughts on Visiting Sarajevo and Mostar

Bosnia and Herzegovina may be a small country, but it offers an incredible mix of history, culture, scenery and welcoming people.

You could easily spend several weeks exploring the mountains, hiking, cycling or visiting the many historic towns across the region. The countryside is beautiful and travel here remains very good value compared with many parts of Europe. 

It’s a perfect destination for a multi-generational European trip as there is something for everyone to enjoy.

If you have extra time, consider extending your trip with a road trip through Montenegro. Herceg Novi is only about a two-hour drive from Mostar, and the spectacular Bay of Kotor is just a little further along the coast.

More Balkans Travel Guides

If you’re exploring this region of Europe, you might also enjoy our 3 Day Sofia Itinerary. Bulgaria’s capital city is perfect for a few days, as is neigbouring North Macedonia. Read about our Week In North Macedonia adventures from Skopje to Lake Ohrid.