A Perfect Itinerary in Buenos Aires
Why visit Buenos Aires?
Well, to start with any city with a name that translates into ‘Good Aires’ in English sounds like a place oozing with positivity! During visits here we have discovered a rich multi-cultural heritage, vibrant art and music scene which form a solid base to help you plan a Perfect Buenos Aires Itinerary.
Couple that with delicious foods and passion for living late into the night! Experiencing this city is always like turning up to an amazing party!
Our ‘been here’ tips on where to stay, how to get around, & understanding the Blue Dollar currency mysteries. In addition, and in the ‘more fun’ category where to go to for a tango class in Buenos Aires. Or, why not cheer on local football teams at a legendary stadium.
Read on our curated itinerary of things to do to make the most of your time in the second largest mega-city in the southern hemisphere.
How to Get to Buenos Aires
The city has excellent international flights into Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE) from around the world. It’s around 20 miles outside the city. We flew in domestically from Mendoza to the smaller Jorge Newberry airport nearer the city with Argentine Airlines.
Navigating through the airport was straightforward. Then it’s only a few miles into town center or the likes of Palermo district where many tourists stay.
When you exit arrivals organize a transfer with Remiss (private taxi) – we used Leo Transfer (see photo for email). It was great. In fact we used the same driver (Leonid) for transfers to EZE airport when we left and he was very reliable.
Best Time to Visit Buenos Aires
Spring and Autumn are ideal times to visit.
Autumn months (March to May) and Spring (Sept to Nov) typically mean temperatures in the 70s and less humidity in Buenos Aires. But events take place all year round!
Be aware, Buenos Aires can be very busy over Christmas and New Year!
Tips for Getting Around Buenos Aires
Use the SUBTE (underground) if you’re whizzing around central Buenos Aires. It’s cheap, efficient and safe. Where to buy a Subte card in Buenos Aires?
We suggest to buy a reloadable plastic Subte card on arrival at the airport at the Information Desk. You can use 1 card for a group.
Then add cash to it at the station before your first journey around the city. It’s cheap – 20 cents (USD) per journey per person and runs 5am to 9pm (later for central lines).
Uber in Buenos Aires. We used Uber a few times when away from Subte lines and all went well. Regular taxis are cheap but the drivers are a little speedy- think Fast and Furious – so be warned!
If you don’t speak Spanish, check out ‘When you Don’t Speak the Language‘ tips to help communicating.
Where to stay in Buenos Aires
We split our time in Buenos Aires with a trip to Uruguay for a few days in the middle. At the front end of our trip we booked an Air B&B in Palermo, a beautiful barrio with lots of restaurants, bars, vibrant nightlife from cafes to clubs.
Our second accommodation was a downtown classic hotel called Tango De Mayo. It was only a few minutes from Plaza de Mayo and Av 9 de Julio/Corrientes Avenue.
Both places offer rooftop areas to sit and relax in the evening. It’s highly recommended as you unwind from a busy day of Buenos Aires and inhale some of that ‘good air’.
🎒TPOP Tip: Check how far the walk is from your hotel/accomodation to the nearest Subte station. Our first Air B&B was 15-20 mins to Plaza Italia stop – a little bit of a hike but an enjoyable walk each day.
Also check in advance where the nearest cambia (preferably Western Union) is for changing money. More on cash, credit cards and blue dollar in Argentina later in this post.
Understand Argentina’s currency & ‘Blue Dollar’
At the time in writing exchanges rates are excellent for US, European travelers. To be honest, understanding currency in Argentina takes a bit of work, but here’s our key tips to navigate through these muddy waters!
- Don’t exchange money before you arrive. The rates fluctuate wildly and you may lose value before you even hit the ground!
- Avoid using ATMs – you can only withdraw a small sum ($20 worth) and the charges are ridiculous.
- Find an exchange (Cambiar) – Western Union is the best to change cash and restrict to say $100 equivalent a time. Rates can change daily. For some reason they want ‘crisp new notes’ and prefer bigger bills!
- You can use a credit card but be careful as exchange rates can be less than the ‘blue dollar’ rate you get at a cambiar.
Here is a full explanation of Argentina’s currency. Don’t stress! We pretty much used cash and Western Union cambiar sites and all was good.
Things to Do On A Perfect Buenos Aires Itinerary
Before you arrive, it’s good to understand that Siesta time is a real event in Buenos Aires. Shops, businesses all close for several hours each afternoon – typically from 2-4pm. So plan your activities around this.
Also people eat lunch and dinner much later than in say the USA or UK – it’s not unusual to go out for dinner at 9 or 10 at night! Check specific sights on-line to make sure you don’t turn up and somewhere is closed for Siesta!
Walking Tour or Hop on/Hop Off Bus
Buenos Aires is big! With 15 million residents this is not a city just to wander around in my humble opinion. You can waste a lot of time trying to get your bearings or debating how to go from ‘a to b’ and still get quite disorientated.
A walking tour or hop on/hop off bus can really help you understand the lay of the city, and firm up ‘must see or do’ lists. We booked with Buenos Aires Free Walks (English guide).
It was really interesting to hear more history as well as current perspectives in this 3 hour tour but the group size was quite large (30 people) so if you prefer a smaller tour, shop around.
Hop On/Hop Off bus tours are offered by 2 operators that we found: Gray Line and Yellow Bus. The Gray Line route is longer (4 hours round journey and I felt it went to stop too far away from the city eg. Jorge Newberry airport).
Yellow Bus tour routes are shorter. We booked the bus on-line and joined it just off of Plaza de Mayo. Try and avoid peak ‘commuter’ times to be on the bus, otherwise you’ll sit in traffic for ages:)
Bargain at San Telmo Sunday Market
Even a stalwart shopper may be overwhelmed at the scale of San Telmo Market with over 300 stalls. Running the length of La Defensa Avenue advertised starting at 10am.
However, this is the city of night time living, so many stalls won’t open for an hour or so later! Check out local crafts, wine-related everything, hand-made jewels, food and so much more.
Don’t miss the laden antique stalls of Feria de San Telmo, located on cobbled streets. Then listen! You won’t be far away from street tango dancers, strutting to evocative music as crowds snap away with their phones.
Whenyou’re hungry pop into the historic and bustling Central Market (Mercado Centrale) for a snack or full lunch. You’ll find authentic food being enjoyed by locales and tourists alike. This is not the place for a quiet drink but I loved the authenticity of the old Mercado.
Take a Tango Lesson and Then Watch a Show
The Argentine tango dance is world famous and there are numerous places to be mesmerized by the emotional moves and melodies. This is the place to grab a lesson and test out your dancing shoes!
From small cafes to large theaters there is a tango class and show to suit every budget and interest level. It’s something you just have to do in Buenos Aires and it was fun!
We booked our dance class and show via GetYourGuide. The class was around 30 minutes and although in Spanish it was really enjoyable and we got straight into the basic foot moves.
I learned that the most important first thing to appreciate in tango is confidence via strong eye contact. Quite challenging for us more introverted people but it makes total sense when you watch the professionals.
The story through dance is unique and the complexity of moves amazing to watch. Makes me want to go to dance classes 🙂
By the way you can select a dinner with the show (it’s optional). We did and it was good value and a nice way to relax as we watched the show.
Walk around La Recoleta Cemetery
It may sound a bit morbid but this is no ordinary grave site. Since the 18th century, the so called elite, chose to entomb their loved ones in wildly lavish tombs. Ordinary citizens too could choose Recoleta as a final resting site if their finances allowed it.
🎒TPOP Tip! When you check on line you’ll see opening hours for Recoleta Cemetery advertised from 8am to 6pm. However, tourists are not permitted to enter after 5pm!
You can buy tickets at the entrance with credit card only! Pick up a map and tour around yourself using your imagination as you read the plaques and admire the architecture of over 6,400 tombs.
As you leave the ticket hall you’re likely to have a guide ask if you want a tour. We didn’t as it’s fun just to discover your own version of interesting sites vs. going to the Top 5. It’s not difficult to find the grave of Eva Peron either!
Empanadas, Parillos and Malbec
Food & wines are central to embracing Argentine’s culture. Find a local stall serving freshly made empanadas with countless fillings. Head to one of thousands of Parillos (steak house) for a meat lovers gorge!
Or just stop at a street cafe anywhere in the city and relax with a fantastic Argentinian Malbec. You can find vegetarian and vegan options but honestly this is a city that lives on meat and red wine 🙂
Finding a favourite spot will probably depend where you are staying so use resources like TripAdvisor to get an idea of what’s around. Hotels can often steer you away from ‘touristy’ restaurants to more authentic and affordable local options.
We found a great place in Palermo Soho searching on-line – El Preferido Restaurant.
Visit Award winning Teatro Colon
Ok, you may not be an Opera fan, but honestly this is a gorgeous building with a remarkable history. Colon Teatro is listed in the Top 10 Opera houses in the World by National Geographic.
Its acoustics are incredible and performances are quite wide-ranging so check what’s on when you’re visiting. Designed by 3 successive architects it has a mix of Italian, French and of course Argentine design.
Alternatively, book a guided tour for a hour. This takes you through the building, into the main theatre where you can ‘listen’ to warm up acoustics and image how it feels when a performance is in full flow. Apparently the sound fills the space so well it’s impossible to hold a separate conversation!
Eat Lunch in Colorful Caminito – La Boca
Caminito (which translates to little street!) is a picture postcard perfect part of Buenos Aires. We got here with the Hop-On/Hop Off bus. It gets busy, really busy, late morning and over lunch (1-3pm in Buenos Aires)!
Get here early and first take your photos and wander around the fun shops. Afterwards, pick your table and enjoy lunch in the middle of the action Tango dancers and singers will entertain you. Expect the food and prices to be touristy. BUT, it’s lively, unique, fun – just like the city’s personality.
Go To A Superclasico Game at La Bombonera Stadium
“Football is life!” is a well known phrase from the popular Ted Lasso TV show which we love because it’s based in Richmond, London near to where we lived for 10 years!
However, if you come to Buenos Aires to watch a game it’s going to be a whole other level of energy. Football is life in Buenos Aires and Argentina!!
Of course, having won the 2022 World Cup, Argentinians have every reason to be proud. From murals depicting Messi and Maradona ‘football gods of Argentina’ to visiting La Bombonera legendary stadium you quickly feel the passion and pride.
If you can get tickets, go watch a match! You’ll score big if you get tickets to a superclasico between big rivals Boca Juniors and River Plate teams.
It doesn’t matter if you’re not a big football fan – its all about understanding the Argentinian love for the ball. Most tour operators like Get Your Guide offer a night at the football.
Relax in Café Tortoni, the City’s Oldest Cafe!
Getting Here: Google Maps Link to Cafe Tortini.
The queue outside is long but moves quickly. We waited no more than 5-10 minutes and it was so worth it! Rated as one of the Top Cafes of the World, Café Tortoni is old style deliciousness at every turn. Sit at your table while the waiter serves you with a smile.
This is the place to indulge in the sweetest of cakes, only to be beaten by Scottish tablet; the Alfajor. A Dulce de Leche (a condensed milk speciality here and in Uruguay), chocolate and biscuit mix: what’s not to love?
Historically this cafe was home to political and social icons, along with literary greats like Jorge Luis Borges. The art work is stunning with all genres on display.
Take the time to walk around, explore the side rooms, where at night the vibe shifts as tango and jazz shows fill the shadowy rooms.
Visit Evita Museum & Eat Dinner in Palermo Soho
The story of Evita is a captivating one and still sparks emotion for what she did or did not do as the wife of President Peron.
But dig beneath the politics and there is a fascinating story of a young girl from humble beginnings who fought her way forward in life on her terms.
This museum showcases her life (positively) and her legacy in terms of education, nursing training, women’s voting rights and more. Learn more about this turbulent time in the country’s history and how Eva Duarte (her maiden name) left her mark not only here but around the world! And watch the movie with Madonna as Evita before you arrive or when you’re back home.
Go Downtown & Cross the Widest Street in the World
Central Buenos Aires is impressive with wide tree-lined boulevards offering a little shade to its residents and visitors. Start at the presidential Casa Rosada (Pink House) on Plaza de Mayo.
Walk towards the 67.5m tall Obelisk on Av 9 de Julia and soak in the views. This ginormous street is busy 24/7 with as many as 16 lanes on each side.
Take your selfie at the massive B.A. sign in front of the tower before continuing. Then turn down Av. Corrientes which has a ‘New York’ feel to it and into theatre land with many shows on offer.
On a Sunday morning it’s quieter and really stunning to walk around, admiring the architecture and exploring the many small streets off these main arteries.
There is also a lovely farmers market nearby on a Sunday with everything you could possibly want for a picnic!
Spend Time in Palermo Soho
In my experience over several visits, staying in the city center makes sense for first time visitors. It’s much easier to get around and see the main ‘downtown’ sights on foot.
But don’t miss spending time in other districts like Palermo. It’s also a very popular place for visitors to stay with a range of good accommodation and it’s safe at night to walk around.
Narrow, high walled side streets reveal bright graffiti art where you may see a model shot underway, a wedding party or perhaps even an artist at work.
You will find cafes, bars and restaurants galore. From the city center just take the Red line to Plaza Italia. This is also the nearest stop for the Evita Museum.
When Planning A Perfect Itinerary in Buenos Aires
Check out a few of the other things we enjoyed and recommend to create A Perfect Week Itinerary in Buenos Aires:
- Spend a few hours at the National History Museum (closed Mon/Tues) at time of writing.
- Check out the gigantic Florais Generica steel sculpture – a 20m (75 ft) high silver flower near Plaza de las Naciones Unidas. It opens its petals around 8am and closes with sunset..amazing!
- Go to Palacio Barlo in the city center and take a tour to the top for sunset…alternatively go to the rooftop bar at Hotel Tango de Mayo next-door!
- Head to Campo Argentino de Polo and watch a game – the Argentine Polo Tournament runs Nov-Dec.
- Indulge in a dolce de leche ice-cream!
- Relax at Bosques de Palermo with a picnic or bottle of wine – its 1000 acres include lakes, picnic areas, bike paths. If you head to the Rose Garden, you can make your way to the water from here.
- Visit the Tigre Delta north of the city for a relaxing day boating.
- Get into the countryside and spend a day with Argentine cowboys – Gauchos on a working estancia.
- Pay respects to a difficult history in Argentina. Visiting the sombre memorial dedicated to ‘the missing ones’.
Major Festivals in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires never sleeps! As well as fantastic experiences for first-time visitors, there are some annual festivals and events you might want to plan your visit around.
Here’s a few to consider:
- Lollapalooza Music Festival (March)
- Exposition Rural (July-August)
- Buenos Aires Tango Festival (August)
- Festival Internacional de Buenos Aires (Sept-Oct)
For more information on getting here and things to do, check out Getting to Buenos Aires Guide.
Wrap Up – Buenos Aires
It’s easy to fill weeks of time within this incredible capital city and the surrounding regions of Argentina. But if you have time there are some great combination trips to consider adding to a perfect Buenos Aires Itinerary.
On our most recent South American trip, we combined Buenos Aires with:
- A Week In Chile Itinerary – drive from Santiago to Mendoza over the Andes in 5-6 hours.
- Mendoza – 1.15 hr flight to Buenos Aires
- Explore South West Uruguay – 3 Days Itinerary – 1.5 hr ferry ride from Buenos Aires.
Have fun discovering Buenos Aires and more of Argentina.