A Perfect Scottish Island Itinerary – 6 Days on Islay and Colonsay
Are you dreaming about unwinding for a week on remote gorgeous Scottish islands like Colonsay Islay and Jura?
Being Scottish we might be a little biased 🙂 But honestly our west coast and northern islands are some of the most beguiling and beautiful destinations on our planet! We spend time every year exploring these islands and each one is unique.
Some islands may be better known like Skye; others the result of TV shows like Shetland. Islands like Mull, Iona and uninhabited Staffa attract curious travelers year after year.
With almost 800 islands, you won’t run out of choices. 80 are inhabited. Throw in a few unpopulated favorites like Staffa, St Kilda and you have an incredible range to choose from.
Why not combine an island trip with A Tour of Mainland Scotland? From our journeys and time in the Scottish islands, we have collected a lot of travel information. Read on for how to plan your trip to Islay and Colonsay with great ideas of things to do for an unforgettable visit.
What makes Scotland’s isles so beloved?
We have half a dozen reasons to start with:
Natural beauty. Undeveloped golden sandy remote beaches to yourself and miles of heather clad hills to explore.
Freedom. Hike, bike, paddle board, wild swim, camp pretty much to your heart’s content.
Space. With sparse populations there’s hardly ever a crowd – Isle of Skye perhaps is the exception!
Food and Drink. Fresh local seafood from miles of pristine coastline, seasonal produce, and the lure of ancient whisky distilleries. A more recent addition are island gin makers foraging the freshest of local wild flora.
Wildlife. You’re going to see some wildlife here. Maybe wild goats on Jura, tiny Shetland ponies, or grey and Atlantic seals. Some, like the more elusive otters, breaching whales, nesting puffins may require a bit more patience and/or planning to hit the right time of year. There are birds galore, including rare breads like corncrake.
The islanders! Spend time here and you”ll see islanders work incredibly hard while upholding tradition. Once you know the one general shop closes at 2pm and is shut on Sunday, you adapt!
So if we’ve whet your appetite, first get to Oban or Tarbert. Both coastal towns are gorgeous spots for overnight stays. We stayed at Knapp Guest House, Tarbert which was ideal coming off a late evening ferry.
Getting to Colonsay, Islay and Jura From Oban
Our 5,499 tonne Clansman ferry pushed off from Oban’s terminal without fuss or formality, just a blast of its horn. I sprinted up to the outdoor top deck to capture the warmth of mid summer sun’s rays. I let my imagination run a little as we built up speed and sailed past the anchored boats on our way to open waters.
Somehow when on these ferries gliding past pastel silhouettes of hills, glens and tiny hamlets on faraway headlands , it’s feels like I’m being teleported to another world 🙂
Around 2.5 hrs (20 miles) off the Scottish mainland lie Colonsay and Oronsay (connected together at low tide). From Colonsay, the ferry sails from here to Islay twice a week (75 mins). Jura is literally a 5 minute ferry hop from Port Askeig, Islay.
Colonsay is small even by Scottish island definition. It’s around 8 miles long. Its smaller neighboring island Oransay is connected by a mile-wide tidal strand. Walking across is the only means to visit (& return) from. Combined the islands measure approximately 10 miles by 2 miles wide. Incredibly, this is home for c.150 year-round residents, almost 200 species of birds and some 500 species of flora.
First Stop Colonsay
However, before any whisky challenge on Islay, we had 2 days on tiny Colonsay. As our ferry docked , a perfect Scottish summer evening greeted us. Gentle sparkling waters splashed the sturdy harbour wall. I took a deep breath, hauled my backpack on, ready to walk the short distance to The Colonsay Hotel. The only one on the island I might add, so book ahead!
Where to Stay on Colonsay
The 9-bedroom Colonsay Hotel is a traditional, well-run property. It offers fabulous views towards the port over uninterrupted fields of wild grass and grazing sheep.
Furthermore, their excellent restaurant is open to non residents but pre-book for obvious reasons!
In addition, if you’re thinking of bringing a camper van pre-book accommodation in advance because overnight parking is not permitted on public or private land.
There are limited bed and breakfast and Air B&B options. Book via booking.com or Visit Scotland website.
How to Get Around Colonsay
While you can walk (we did) and there are many beautiful paths to hike, it takes time to get around the island as there isn’t any public transport. You can hitch a ride without worry (we did this). Personally, I’d bring/rent a bike (vs a car) if you’re staying longer. But you may want a car if you’re driving around Islay and Jura.
You can hire bikes from Colonsay Bike and Board hire. FYI they also rent out paddle boards and wetsuits!
Remember island roads are typically single track, but quiet so you’re going to have them to yourselves most of the time. Keep an eye out as greedy grazing sheep stray from their fields onto the road sides, often with lambs in tow.
Discover Colonsay’s Beaches
The 8 or so beaches on Colonsay are magical, and empty most of the time. We walked 4 miles from our hotel over to Kiloran Beach (across the island!) and back on quiet roads, almost like pathways.
You will walk under green canopies shading you in parts as the tree branches touch. Listen as you walk and you’ll likely hear the protected black bees buzzing around harvesting nectar. It’s no surprise the local honey is delicious!
At the beaches, swim, picnic, paddle board, surf, walk the swaths of golden sand. Or just enjoy the views out to the Atlantic. If you want, head to the tip of island you can also enjoy Traigh Ban beach up from Kiloran. With wondrous views of Mull and a great spot for a wild swim, it’s perfect for an afternoon.
Next, head south to The Strand, the name for a stretch of shallow water that reveals itself as the crossing point from Colonsay to Oronsay in low tide.
There is parking here if you plan to drive from elsewhere on the island and walk over.
🎒TPOP Tip! Make sure you check the tide charts before you head out ‘to sea’ as it is possible to get stuck and there is no accommodation on Oronsay.
Sample Local Gins
There may only be one hotel but we found 2 gin distilleries on Colonsay! One – Wild Thyme Spirits – is actually a Gin lover’s retreat. As well as tours and tastings, you can book in for a luxury weekend. Their gin is made with local botanicals from the island’s estate and the gardens of Colonsay House. Just off the ferry terminal, at Scalasaig, you will find Wild Island Gin Distillery, next to the one bookshop on the island. It’s also delicious and it was only fair that I tried both at the hotel bar!
Visit Colonsay’s Smokery
Two minutes walk from the Colonsay Hotel, is a small shed. This is the HQ of entrepreneur Richard, who poured his passion into creating traditional smoked salmon by hand. He constructed every piece of this smokery himself during Covid – a real testimony to pursuing your dream! They sell small lamb wool eco-friendly bags that keep your salmon fresh for up to 2 weeks. So go visit and support Colonsay Smokery. Check the website for opening hours.
Play A Round Of Golf
It’s only £10 to play a round of golf in this 18-hole course at Machrins on the west of Colonsay. Being on the coast can be challenging with the ‘breeze’ off the Atlantic Ocean waters.
There is an honesty box for fees. You can also rent clubs at the course. E-mail in advance to reserve your tee time manager@colonsayholidays.co.uk
Enjoy Afternoon Tea
Have afternoon tea at Colonsay House Gardens! These are a showpiece of rhododendrons in early summer but you will also spot unusual shrubs and trees to enjoy across 20 acres year-round. Much of the garden was planted back in the 1930s. Tour around before heading to the Cafe for lunch or afternoon tea. Open April to October. Check opening times and entrance fees.
And More Things to Do On Colonsay
Fly fishing – Permits are required (£30 per adult per week). These can be bought locally via the Estate Office at Colonsay House.
Support island crafters. You’re likely to be welcomed by sheep if you visit the Waiting Room Gallery next to the harbour. It’s well stocked with locally items including paintings to jewelry. Also when you wander past the village shop (also the post office) and walk up the hill, you will find a few signs for local crafts. These are within people’s homes. So if you can support them do, as there isn’t a huge employment choice here. I really admired their creativity and entrepreneurial talents.
Enjoy Festivals. Why not come to one of the annual events including Book Festival (April), Folk Music (Sept) and an Autumn food and drink festival in October. The Visit Colonsay website is run by locals and another great planning resource.
Where to Eat on Colonsay
This is a small community so manage expectations and plan ahead. The Colonsay Hotel (where we stayed) dates back to 1750. With a bar, relaxing lounge and excellent local based dinner menu, it’s the place to stay too.
There are 2 other options for eating out: the previously mentioned Gardens Cafe and just up the road from the pier, The Pantry. Check locally for operating hours for all. If you’re in an Air B&B, stock up at the General Store!
Summing up Colonsay
This is an understated island, perhaps overshadowed a little by its neighbours! We might have only spent a couple of nights here, but I loved doing nothing much other than enjoying the outdoors.
This whole experience reminds us of the saying ‘the best of things come in small packages.’ Colonsay illustrates this saying perfectly – don’t overlook it on your island hopping.
Ferry From Colonsay to Islay
Next on our Colonsay Islay and Jura trip was another ferry ride! The current twice-weekly CalMac ferry from Colonsay to Port Askeig, Islay takes around 75 mins.
Islay and Jura are both bigger than Colonsay and each offer a unique look and culture. Islay is the 5th biggest in Scotland at 25 miles by 15. Jura is larger, measuring 27 miles by 2-8 miles wide. With a distinctive mountain range called the Paps of Jura, it’s the 4th biggest Scottish isle.
Together, they offer the visitor around 10 working world class distilleries. One of these is also the home of The Botanist Gin. More recently, the Islay Rum Distillery has started production.
Over on Jura Lussa Gin, at the north end of the island, is operated by 3 women.
The more populated island is Islay (Aye-La), also known as The Queen of the Hebrides. The early inhabitants date back to 8000 BC. But the Celts were the first major group to anchor down here. Then Vikings took over (as they did in other parts of the UK) for a period before Scotland reclaimed its territory.
The Main Draw to Islay – Whisky!
With fertile soil and peaty, water sources, Islay is a perfect whisky making land. By their own admission, islanders love story telling. As you explore this intriguing heritage, you’ll receive the gift of a number of island tales. Some may be factual. Most have a dusting of exaggeration mixed in, but nevertheless, the underlying storyline will have been handed down over generations.
Back in the day, around mid 1800s, the farmers on Islay distilled their own whisky (moon shine). They ‘distributed’ it to villagers and of course enjoyed their own tipple. When mainland customs and excise got wind of this ‘profiteering’ they periodically sailed over from Glasgow. Armed with a plan, they were certain of ‘catching’ the islanders in the act. However, with a co-operative lookout rota from a hilltop, the distillers were able to see the boat coming.
The alarm sounded and they’d hide their stills (rumour has it in crypts underground). Then they denied any knowledge of illicit activity. It helped that these inspectors only sailed in good weather!
Islay Whisky History – Caught in the act!
However, one rainy, stormy day, an unexpected boat landed, catching the crafty artisans in full swing. Their immediate choice was either to pay a fine which none of them could possibly afford or be jailed on the mainland. That meant not seeing their family for 2 years (or more). But, the officials knew there was money to be made from whisky and so offered a 3rd option. “Make the whisky to our process, declare it and pay tax”.
Ultimately, they really didn’t have a choice and so the birth of Islay’s distilleries followed rapidly and through hard and good times has endured.
An Organized Tour vs. Independent Visit to Islay?
It’s going to be a personal choice. If you’re also spending time in Edinburgh or Glasgow, it might be easier to book a tour from here. Although we haven’t done this, Scottish Routes tours has good reviews and is an excellent resource.
If you choose the independent option as we did, you will need transportation to get around Islay. Of course if you’re whisky tasting you don’t want to drive. So, consider booking a local taxi company like McIntyre Private Hire Islay – ask for John. Over our 3 days we pre-booked him for various trips, paying at the end via a credit card: easy, reliable. At peak times, you will need to book in advance – don’t expect an Uber type service on these islands.
Islay Distilleries to Visit & What to Expect
We visited 5 distilleries over a couple of days. We visited Bowmore, Caol Ila (col-eela) and Ardbeg, and toured Bruichladdich and Lagavulin. My feeling is that 2 visits/tour per day is enough to avoid feeling overwhelmed by too many whisky choices!
So, what can you expect on a Distillery Tour?
I won’t go through all the details on each tour as it’s a bit of a repeat. Rather I hope to share the personality of distilleries we visited and a little of conversations with people about the traditions they nurture.
Island malt whisky is distinctive in taste due to peat. Apparently, peat is not that well understood based on the questions from the tour, so here’s a link to explain the basics of Peat, what it is, where it comes from, how its smoked, to what ‘ppm’ means on your bottle of whisky and how (in theory) it is used to make whisky. Each recipe is of course a tightly guarded secret. So let’s begin!
Bruiachladdich Distillery
Our first tour was to Bruiachladdich about 15 minutes drive around Loch Indaal from Bowman. Look out for the cows walking on the beach! We received a warm welcome from Mary, the manager.
Our 1 hour tour, led by Shannon, was brilliant. She was enthusiastic, knowledgeable and justly proud of the distillery, its heritage and her island. We learned about the sheer will and passion that enabled this small operation to keep going against the odds.
Much of the Victorian era equipment is still in use today, lovingly preserved, and testimony to willpower to keep it going.
How Whisky Making Survived Turbulent Times
For a number of years, Bruichladdich stopped full production, then re-started, with different people at the helm but no real continuity. Better fortunes were on the cards when finally a wine merchant from London came to Islay. As a fan of Bruichladdich, he was dismayed to see padlocks on the gate.
Not a person to give up, he pursued the company and finally bought it! Not knowing a thing about making whisky he sought out a distilling legend, headhunting Jim McEwen from across the Loch at Bowman.
Of course there is a lead time to making money from whisky – at least 8 years, so something was needed to fill the gap. Jim came up with the idea of making a gin which is much faster to mature. To cut a long story short, he was the brains behind one of the top 5 selling gins in the world today: The Botanist.
A Chat with Jim McEwan – Legendary Distiller
Having heard this story from Shannon, it was an incredible coincidence to bump into Jim a little later. He happened to be coming out of a driveway as we walked past with our Bruichladdich ‘gift shop’ bag.
This friendly local stopped us to say hello and after a wee blether he told us his story in a very humble manner. What a genuinely lovely man.
As he shared the love of what he did for 40 years or so, he also helped us understand the huge importance of the whisky industry to human survival on Islay.
I hadn’t really considered this before and it was a huge privilege to chat with him and listen to his perspective on island life.
Port Askaig
We headed back towards Port Askaig where the main ferry terminal is. It’s tiny, with only a small traditional hotel and local shop. The hotel has outdoor seating, perfect for a drink or coffee while you wait for the ferry. The resident terrier doggies were entertaining and when the sun shines, the views over to wild Jura are alluring.
Caol Ila (Col-eela) Distillery
We walked from the port to visit Caol Ila (col-eela) distillery. This has undergone a major facelift due to investment from parent company Johnny Walker. In operation since 1856, it’s the biggest on the island and is in a beautiful location, like most of the distilleries, right on the bay.
The new tasting area has huge sliding windows that open up – very modern. It serves cappuccino and whisky based cocktails and I think this opens up appeal to a wider potential demographic.
Does it’s 21st century look lose something from the traditional vibe from the likes of Bruichladdich or Ardbeg? Perhaps, but at the same time, their whisky process remains 100% true to its origins.
And, I have to say, I sampled a 15 year old that teased with vanilla notes. OMG, was I moving toward saying that maybe I would drink a wee whisky again in my life?
Lagavulin Distillery
So, on to Lagavulin. Craig our guide was a natural and created a Harry Potter like tale of how whisky got conjured into life from the ancient peat furnace basement to the old milling room, to a relaxing tasting room.
And would you know it, the #2 whisky of this tasting, sprung to life in my mouth, bouncing sweet caramel flavour with a touch of vanilla. I had to admit out loud for the second time in as many days that I could enjoy a small dram from another 15 year old Islay’s most popular brand.
Visit Ruins of Dunyvaig Castle Between Tastings
After our tour and tasting, we hiked up to Dunyvaig Castle which is ideally located on the coast between Lagavulin and Ardbeg distilleries. By the way, there is a great paved pedestrian path between these 2.
Now a ruin, it still strikes an imposing image against the bay. It was a naval headquarters for the Lord of the Isles in the distant past, the chief of the Donald clan.
Ardberg Distillery
On arrival at Ardbeg Distillery we had lunch. It’s a great spot to sit and relax either in their cafe or outside (weather dependent of course).
Other Things to Do on Islay
Go Whale Watching
There are all sorts of water based tours from Islay and Jura to enjoy. We saw dolphins and whales from the main ferry but obviously at some distance. If you’re looking to get more up close, or perhaps try some fishing, then get in touch with a professional guide. Islay Sea Adventures offer all of the above.
Visit Islay’s ‘Singing’ Sands
You won’t believe the beauty of Islay’s beaches until you experience them with your own eyes. Our Scottish west coast is dotted with hidden coves. A popular route is from the small village of Port Ellen over to Carraig Fhada Lighthouse and Singing Sands on Oa pensinsula.
It gets it name because the sand granules are a certain shape and size, the higher humidity and its composition which contains silica. There are other singing beaches in the world but don’t discount this one for its blue waters, golden sands and sea cliffs.
Also on this peninsular you will find a monument that honors sailors from the USA who were lost from Tuscania and Otranto ships in 1918.
Spend an afternoon in Bowman
Bowman is Islay’s ‘main village’. I don’t feel anywhere is big enough to be called a town and that’s what is so delightful! Bowman offers a range of accommodation.
We stayed at the Bruce Guest House on Shore Street – modern rooms with breakfast served at the hotel next door. The street faces onto the water and so views over to Jura Paps are nothing short of stunning on a sunny day.
Check out Bowman’s round church perched on a hill off the square. Dating back to 1767, it was designed so as to avoid any corner where the devil might hide.
When you get hungry, Peatzaria just down the street has superb bay views and offers a cleverly thought through pizza menu reflecting local seafood as well as excellent vegan options.There are several pubs and restaurants around Bowman offering local seafood based options – book in advance as they get very busy.
Islay and Jura festivals
On Islay and Jura, the annual whisky festival (Feis Ile) attracts over 20,000 enthusiasts in the last week of May. With traditional music, local food and countless whisky events, its a glorious experience. Start planning now for 2025!
Corryvreckan Whirlpool
Corryvreckan Whirlpool is the 3rd largest in the world!
Want some adventure on the waves north of Jura? Try a boat ride out to the infamous Corryvreckan, where you can experience some of the strongest current in the world.
Go with a reputable company – this is serious sailing water.
Having watched the classic film ‘I Know Where I’m Going’ made back in the 1940s, I’m not sure I’m brave enough to go, but its definately one to tick off any ‘adventure’ list!
Wild Jura
Jura is a 5 minute journey from Port Askeig. A small ferry runs pretty much all day with a 3-4 car capacity.
Much less developed than its neighborhood with different terrain, Jura is perfect for outdoor enthusiasts It’s popular with cyclists and hikers who want to enjoy remote places. Given it’s size, with only 200 inhabitants you’re going to have a whole lot of space to yourself. In fact, there are more wild deer here than people by far – over 5000.
If you decide to have a day out here from Islay, make sure to bring your own picnic as there really isn’t much on Jura in the way of shops at all! Most accommodation is basic but you can look at options via the Visit Scotland website. If you are a fan of George Orwell’s literature, you might know he stayed on Jura while writing 1984. You too can stay at his house, although it will set you back a bit!
Even more luxurious is the hidden away resort of Ardfin, established by an Australian. With its golf course rated in the Top 100 and 5 star accommodation it’s one to check out for that special celebration perhaps.
We had hoped to take a trip with Jura Island Tours with owner Alex. Sadly, his van was in the repair shop so it didn’t happen this visit. However, do contact him for what looks like a super day out from Islay.
Wrap Up: Colonsay Islay and Jura
The sun shone during our visit. Long summer days and evenings of sunshine makes a difference to the views and outdoor fun. That said, when fierce storms blow off the Atlantic, the true nature of the resilience and raw beauty is revealed and it’s quite exilerating.
I loved the quiet, almost stillness of these isles. I was drawn to the soft spoken islanders who warmly open their arms to strangers who equally adore their special spirit. Their humble pride in preserving an ancient craft bubbles out like a gentle stream. It’s truly amazing that for every new cocktail and new fizzy drink on a supermarket, Islay whisky has remained unchanged for many generations.
After all these years, I was starting to really appreciate why so many make this long journey from all corners of the world to our small Scottish islands like Islay and Jura. As we say in Scotland – Slainte Mhath! (Good Health!)