Self Guided motorcycle 10-day tour in Spain and Portugal 2023
Why tour on a motorcycle?
Are you kidding? A Spain and Portugal motorcycle tour? From the UK? These days, most people choose to fly to overseas destinations for a holiday. Then they might drive on by car, train or even take another flight to a second location.
Each place visited is a destination but the journey between often feels like a necessary inconvenience, eating into that precious time away from home. “What’s the fastest way from A to B?” for instance.
But, for me and my fellow 2 wheel friends, the time we spend travelling on our motorcycles is absolutely the core of our experience away from home. Because it’s actually what we see on the road, between destinations, that creates a main part of our experience.
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Being on the open road unlocks a whole different perspective! You’re immersed in the countryside around you revealing beautiful and surprising landscapes. Unexpected sights and smells greet you around a blind corner.
In reality, we find a motorcycle ride offers many mini adventures. Our Spain and Portugal motorcycle tour was no exception!
Figuring out where to go
First, before planning our route we had to agree our final Spain and Portugal motorcycle ride destination. When we were chatting about taking a trip together, one of our group shared their love of bridges and dams.
So the decision was made to ride to the iconic Vasco Da Gama Bridge in Lisbon, Portugal. With that landed, we turned our discussion towards our route from England through Spain and Portugal. Our departure point was the ferry port of Portsmouth, in Southern England. We would take a ferry to our first destination – the Spanish port of Santander.
What’s the best motorcycle to tour on?
There is absolutely no right answer to this question. Some people travel around the world on massive adventure bikes like you might have seen Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman riding on their multi-country ‘Long Way’ expeditions.
Others choose simplicity – discovering new places on tiny mopeds. The reality is that no one bike is suitable for every journey. I’ve toured on full-on sports bikes and road bikes. So, this year I set off on my big adventure bike – KTM 1290 Super Adventure S.
My companions for this tour were riding a combination of motorcycles. One was on another big adventure bike. Another had an off road bike and finally a high performance naked sports bike. What a diverse team!
Basics of sailing to Spain & beyond
The outbound Brittany Ferries sailing from Portsmouth, England takes 36 hours (two nights on board). It’s a late evening sailing and an early landing in Northern Spain. On return which is faster (26 hours) catch a mid afternoon sailing and you will dock late afternoon the following day. The cost for a return ticket (with shared cabin) was £675 each.
We scheduled our Spain and Portugal motorcycle trip itinerary for 10 days. Our plan was to use the mini cruise as a chance to relax while sailing through the English Channel and across the Bay of Biscay.
We set ourselves a few basic ‘ground rules’ on route planning. We would avoid motorways, as all the best things happen on the smaller roads. Where possible, we would chose the ‘twisty ones’ and head for the mountains.
Regarding our accommodation, we decided to make reservations day-to-day and this wasn’t just to add adventure 🙂 On a motorcycling trip, the weather can be a deciding factor on routes and length of a ride. So we gave ourselves flexibility to change routes the day before to avoid any bad storms. This can be risky but we mostly tour outside of peak holiday seasons when room availability is higher.
Our Destination
Vasco da Gama Bridge spans the Tagus River connecting Lisbon to Southern Portugal and over into Spain. It was built when Lisbon was host to Expo 1998 (the World Fair). It opened on March 1998 and was named after Vasco Da Gama, a Portuguese explorer. More stats on the bridge later in the post 🙂
Visas, Licences & Insurance
So we didn’t need to apply for the new European Union ETIAS permit but in the future you may need to. We believe it will cost 7 Euros and last 3 years. When you go between countries within the EU, you simply will use the same permit.
Also check what requirements there are for bringing /riding your motorcycle abroad. Coming from the UK to Spain we needed a valid driving license. We also needed insurance documentation. Most insurers will provide the necessary ‘entry’ documents but do remember to take your V5 vehicle registration documents. This link to ‘Bennetts’ provides a great Checklist for Bringing a Motorcycle into Europe from the UK.
Days 1-2: England to Spain by ferry
We beeped our horns goodbye to our families in Suffolk in the east of England and set off in great spirits. After encountering inevitable heavy traffic in rush hour, we arrived in Portsmouth. It was a relief to make it to our first milestone, enjoy a welcome drink and a bite to eat before boarding. Why do you always feel starving after a bike ride, I ask myself? 🙂
Check-in and security procedures are stress free and well organised in Portsmouth. Longer haul ferries are a much more relaxed event than the busier UK to northern France ports. I always get a bit of a buzz when the bike wheels roll onto the ferry and I park up. It’s at this point I felt the real Spain Portugal motorcycle tour adventure started.
Our ferry the Santona was almost brand new with a selection of bars, eating areas and restaurants. The cabins we chose were 4 berth yet very small. So we opted for 2 cabins as with 4 motorcyclists and all our gear it would have been too crowded in one cabin.
My big tip for longer ferry journeys is to bring a book or download some boxsets to while away the hours. For us, it was time to relax before starting our more than 800km/500 mile bike ride to Portugal’s southern coast.
Day 3: Santander to Salamanca, Spain
We arrived to a sunny morning in Santander well slept and ready for adventure! Leaving the port was a smooth process and we were quickly through the passport checks.
Take it easy leaving the port as you re-calibrate your head to driving on the right hand side of the road. For us Brits, it took a few miles to get used to being ‘on the other side’.
Finally, we were heading south out of Santander with a sense of open roads. We were soon in rolling hills, being greeted by vultures and other large raptors catching early thermals. All too soon, the gentler hills were behind us. The terrain changed quickly. We found ourselves riding across expansive agricultural flat lands with big open skies.
Then out of nowhere, a tower of Salamanca’s Cathedral came into view on the horizon. The tall structure was directly in line with the long straight road. I wondered if they had designed the road to create such an ‘ah-ha’ moment.
Things to Do In Salamanca
Salamanca, Spain is one of my favourite cities because of what it doesn’t have 🙂 As it lacks a commercial airport, there are typically fewer tourists here. Secondly, being a university town it has a youthful, energetic vibe about it. Hard to imagine a university has been in existence here since 1218!
We parked our bikes and set off to explore and give our legs a bit of a stretch. Don’t miss the town’s medieval and Roman architecture – it is stunning. Make time in your plans to walk and explore the Salamanca Cathedrals. Check out La Casa de las Conchas (House of Shells). Also wander down to the Rio Tormes for a leisurely stroll over the Puente Romano.
The baroque style large Plaza Mayor is the place to go for a chill out beer. We relaxed chatting about our day’s journey and planning our next stage as daily life went on around us. There are no shortage of places to eat and drink. In fact, the city feels very cosmopolitan in terms of cuisine options. As well as all the Spanish restaurants, there’s food for all diets, tastes and even Irish bars if you need a Guinness away from home.
Day 4: Motorcycle Touring -Salamanca
We spent two nights in Salamanca which gave us a luggage free riding day. Our destination today was the northern part of Parque Regional de la Sierra de Gredos. Remembering the planning rule of ‘look for twisty roads’, this fitted the bill and added some awesome scenery to the ride. Heading south, the landscape was totally flat and agricultural. So we took a detour to check out the Embalse (Reservoir) Santa Theresa where we could indulge one of the teams love of dams. The lake formed is beautiful and worth a pass and photo stop.
Day 5: Salamanca to Portalegre (Portugal)
Today we revved up our machines and headed further south on our motorcycle Spain to Portugal tour. The variety of roads created a challenging and above all fun ride. Leaving Salamanca, we hit more flat agricultural lands. Blessed with long straight roads, it was a joy to ride and take in the scenery. Again the morning sky was alive with birds of prey seeking out thermals or was it keeping an eye on us in our leathers?
As the temperature increased so did the distinctive strong smell of wild herbs. One of the hard to explain benefits of riding a motorcycle is the closer link to the world of scent. It’s something you just don’t get in a car or coach and definitely not in a plane! Although a bit of a cliche, riding a bike connects you to nature in a way that other transport can’t.
The temperature rose quickly and it was time for one of many coffee/water stops. Riding a bike is physically and mentally challenging. When the temperature rises, you have to rehydrate and replenish energy. The great thing about touring in Spain is that cafes are common. Hosts seem obligated to offer Pinchos. These are small snacks that range from olives, pickles and bread but stopping short of full on tapas! So there is always an opportunity to top up on fresh local food as well as fluids.
Parque natural de Las Batuecas-Sierra de Francia
A stop en route was the beautiful Parque natural de Las Batuecas-Sierra de Francia. As well as fantastic views, the technical twists and turns of the road exercise riding skills lost on a daily commute back in England.
Portalegre
Portalegre is a lovely historic town in the northern Alentejan region. The town near to the Portuguese border boasts beautiful buildings and very ancient narrow streets. Independent quirky shops and hidden restaurants are abound. There is a small square with outdoor bars, just perfect for planning the next day’s ride.
But the highlight of the evening was finding a brilliant little family run restaurant where the host delighted in presenting plate after plate of local foods and keeping our glasses topped up with an excellent house wine. That’s true hospitality!
Day 6: Portalegre to Castelo Branco (Via Lisbon)
Today was a long ride. We spent the early part of the day heading further south and it got noticeably busier. The landscape felt industrial in places. But the real surprise was the common sight of trees seemingly brutally stripped of bark up to head height. We saw this both by the roadside and deeper into the countryside. We discovered the reason for the bark stripping is cork , a vital part of the Portuguese economy! Luckily the trees are protected and harvested with strict controls.
And finally, Vasco da Gama, Lisbon
At last, after just one a week of incredible motorcycle riding, we arrived at our final destination. The Vasco da Gama bridge in Lisbon is named after a 15 Century Portuguese explorer. Da Gama discovered a sea route to Asia from Europe. The bridge is an awesome piece of engineering that seems to have several designers. The longest part is a low level crossing that then transforms into a more modern bridge style. Standing close, it seems to go on forever! For those who like stats it is over 12km in length and the longest span is 420m!
We headed into Lisbon to a viewing area to take in the bridge from another angle. If you’re interested spending more time in Lisbon, check out our 7 days in Lisbon and Porto Post.
It was the perfect stop to assess our journey to date over a coffee and ice cream. Excited that we had made it to our destination, thoughts turned to planning our return north!
But the sun doesn’t always shine!
We had been lucky with the weather for our ride. But the truth is that any joy in riding is short lived when the weather changes. We hit a bank of rain that turned previously dry roads into fast-moving rivers.
As our visibility of the countryside around us dropped to virtually nothing, it got tougher. Concentration levels rose as our energy went into making safe progress in the poor conditions. Finally, we made it to our night’s final stop.
Castillo Branco is a small medieval town once inhabited by the Romans. It’s also known for its hand embroidered linens, olive oils and cheese.
Sadly we did not do it justice due to the terrible weather. But we did find a gem for the evening in the Taste of India restaurant. We warmed up with a dinner of excellent south Indian dishes and very friendly hosts.
Day 7: Castelo Branco to Miranda do Douro
The day started with worse fears of rain. Surprisingly, as we rode out of Castelo Branco, we were greeted with warm sunshine. We traveled through the odd shower but the worst of the rain stayed well in the distance. Yeah!
Our route today was crossing the border into Spain. From there we planned a stop-over in Miranda, a border town back in Portugal. The early ride was a mix of seemingly never-ending straight sections punctuated by long sweeping turns. We covered ground quite quickly, stopping for occasional refreshments along the way. I haven’t mentioned details of all the stops on route but they are a big deal.
Often the best stops are those that have the least pretty curb appeal. Even in what first appears a most rural and isolated place we found great service. We stopped at one place that was closed. As we were about to pull away, the host appeared and opened up just for us weary biker travellers!
Another day another dam! This time we visited the Embalse de Almendra. It’s another truly spectacular piece of engineering. Honestly the height and length is jaw dropping. On one side you look down a deep gorge flanked by towering concrete and then a wide expanse of water! Amazing photo opportunity.
Miranda
The road across the border to Miranda was an unexpected mix of short straights and sweeping bends. This variety added a little adrenaline to the end of the day.
Miranda has some stunning views. It’s at the head of an engineered reservoir on the river Douro, with yet another dam to enjoy! In the height of holiday season, it is a prime tourist destination. With walking opportunities and river trips, it’s popular with locals too. We were here in quieter times and enjoyed the out of season peace.
The view from the hotel was fantastic, dominated by the medieval Castelo de Miranda. We discovered a cool little bar near the riverside which was a perfect place to plan our route and accommodation for the next day. The hard work done we enjoyed a pizza in a great little restaurant. Unfortunately, my Portuguese for a large black coffee got me a triple expresso leaving me wide awake until the early hours 🙂
Day 8: Miranda to Riano
Still a little high on caffeine, we headed to the small town of Riano. Sitting on the edge of the Picos de Europa National Park, this is where we planned to spend our 2 final two nights before the return ferry.
This turned into another classic riding day with a great mix of roads winding across the countryside. Leaving Miranda, we crossed the border through lightly wooded landscape. The drystone walling was another feature of great workmanship. We snaked our way to the Puente Quintos and across the Rio Elsa. After recent rains, the river was in full flow and worthy of a quick break to stretch the legs.
Then we headed on towards Guardo and then the Cantabrian Mountains and the Picos de Europa. Now the roads twisted and climbed into the foothills. At this point, our concentration flipped. One minute I’m fixated on spectacular rolling hills disappearing in layers of grey green into the distance. Then twists and turns of the fast sweeping ribbons of pure grey tarmac demand my full attention.
Then came the Embalse de Riano with occasional curved bridges that cross the creaks and valleys that fed the impressive lake.
Riano sits at about 1000m. It feels new; the original village was submerged by the reservoir. Nevertheless, it’s a good stop off point with apartments, hotels and restaurants. Most support tourism of the nearby Picos National Park.
We stayed in a fantastic apartment with two bedrooms. A small supermarket stocked all needed supplies and the evening meal in a great local bar and restaurant gave us a great view across the lake.
Day 9: motorcycle touring – Riano
We chose two nights in Riano so that we could have a spin around an area west of the Picos de Europa national park. Basic route plan rules apply. In this area, there was no difficulty in finding twisty and mountainous roads as we built a loop to Pilona and back to Riano. We found an awesome scenic route in the Parque natural de Redes where the big adventure bikes and dirt bike came into their own floating over the poor surfaces and stressing the sports bike.
As we rode, we saw fresh poo in the road signalling adventure ahead. We caught up with sheep being herded by dogs and farmers everywhere. A smile, a wave and patience was the way to deal with this as we picked our way past and headed further up the pass.
We enjoyed a coffee stop a Pilona and reflected on the days ride. We had to laugh at the bone rattling distress of the sports bike rider who had the last laugh as the roads opened out to smooth tarmac made just for his bike.
The last part of the loop guided us to the western edge of the Picos with sublime scenery around every corner. And great tarmac/asphalt! We caught up with a group of bikes on a big tour. But it was a bit of a crowd so we pulled over letting the 20+ bikers get further ahead.
Stopping and catching a breather and taking in the mountain air made us realise how lucky we were to be touring this wonderful part of the world together.
But it was now time to return to Riano and fill up with fuel at possibly the service station with the best view in the world! Stunning views across the lake with a backdrop of rocky peaks.
We spent the last night of our motorcycling Spain Portugal trip eating, drinking and reflecting on a great tour. The people we met, the places we discovered, fantastic food and the joy of freedom on the road!
Day 10: Riano to Santander the final ride
On our final day, we had a great ride up to the port. We left early in the morning on the road to Potes. It’s not only one of the best riding roads in Europe; we experienced the most stunning view points I have ever seen. The Deer sculpture at Vega de Liebana with a background of mist covered mountains was beyond words. Every time I pass here, I have to stop and take in the view.
After Potes, we headed off for a mid-morning coffee and food at the coastal resort town of St Vicente. There are some great cafes to sit and chill overlooking the water, preparing your mind for the final run to the port.
The ferry trip back to England was smooth and slick. A highlight was seeing dolphins breaking the water’s surface from the ship’s deck. But it’s hard not to feel slightly deflated at the end of a fantastic trip.
Roll on next year…
This Spain to Portugal by motorcycle blog post was written by a guest TPOP contributor! Berridge is a motorcycle enthusiast with a shared passion for discovering new places around the world!
