Nova Scotia Road Trip: A Relaxed 10-11 Day Itinerary

Typical Nova Scotia fishing harbour with moored boats

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“How do I plan a trip around Nova Scotia?” If you’re trying to figure out if a self-drive road trip is a good way to explore Nova Scotia and Cape Breton, Canada, keep reading!

We love a good road trip, and our recent drive through Nova Scotia and around Cape Breton did not disappoint.

Our 10-11 Day Nova Scotia road trip itinerary combines scenic drives, small coastal town stops, Halifax, the Cabot Trail, Wolfville wineries and historic Annapolis at a pace that worked well for us.

Exploring by way of rural roads, pulling over for never ending amazing views, having a coffee or wine at a tiny harbour or waterfront, and soaking up the buzz of Halifax when the moment took us was perfect.

As we finished our travels in Annapolis Royal and headed to catch the Digby Ferry, we realised that we had experienced one of the very best places for a summer road trip.

Harbour view with boats at Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia

Our Nova Scotia Road Trip at a Glance

Here's a quick overview of our suggested route:

Route Summary

  • Duration: 10-11 days
  • Start: Yarmouth
  • Finish: Digby
  • Distance: 1200 miles (1900 km)
  • Best for: All First-time visitors who enjoy independent travels
  • Style: Relaxed self-drive scenic itinerary
  • Highlights: Dramatic coastlines, island ferry rides, whale watching, small towns, and wineries.

We chose this route because we wanted variety in what we saw, and a pace that wasn’t about rushing to ‘must sees’ or Instagram hits.

Because the route is so scenic, we wanted flexibility to stop as and when we felt like it during each day, but a firm plan on where we would be sleeping each night.

Small fishing village on the Nova Scotia coast

Nova Scotia Road Trip Route

This map shows our main destinations and overnight stops.

Just to clarify why we suggest this trip over 10-11 days.

Day 11 is ultimately a travel day, but depending on your ferry time, you can easily enjoy some final experiences. However, that night you will stay wherever you land (in our case it was St John, mainland Canada).

Arrive in Nova Scotia from Bar Harbor (Maine, USA)

  • ➡️Day 1: Yarmouth/Arrive 6.30pm (1 night)
  • ➡️Day 2: Lunenburg (1 night)
  • ➡️Day 3: Mahone Bay, Peggy’s Cove (overnight Halifax)
  • ➡️Days 3-4: Halifax (2 nights)
  • ➡️Days 5-6: Baddeck (2 nights)
  • ➡️Days 7-8: Wolfville (2 nights)
  • ➡️Days 9-10: Annapolis Royal (2 nights)
  • ➡️Day 11 - Depart from Digby by Ferry to St John (Canada)
Stacked lobster traps and buoys in Nova Scotia

Our Favourite Nova Scotia travel moments:

  • Lunenburg - a colorful seaside town with UNESCO status
  • Peggy’s Cove Harbour (lives up to the hype)
  • Ferry from Halifax to Dartmouth for a lazy lunch
  • Quiet reflection at the Titanic Graveyard in Halifax
  • Evening ceilidh music performance in Baddeck Village Hall
  • Driving the stunning Cabot Trail in Cape Breton
  • Whale Watching in Bay of St Lawrence
  • Wine Tasting in Wolfville and Bear River
  • Annapolis Royal Farmers Markets Goodies
  • Watching fishermen haul onboard lobster in Digby

Our Nova Scotia & Cape Breton Driving Plan

DepartArriveDistanceApprox. Time
YarmouthLunenburg227km2 hours 30 mins
LunenburgMahone Bay12km15 minutes
Mahone BayPeggy’s Cove86km1 hour 10 mins
Peggy’s CoveHalifax43km50 minutes
HalifaxBaddeck350 km3.5 hours
Cabot Trail From/To Baddeck298 km/185mDay Trip
BaddeckWolfville411 km/256m4 hours
WolfvilleAnnapolis Royal98km/67m1 hour 15 mins
Annapolis RoyalDigby32km/20m30 minutes

These drive times are from A to B so if you make detours or short journeys around each destination, it will add on a few miles, but it’s totally worth it in most cases!

Best Time to Visit Nova Scotia

Our friend Mark, who grew up here, highly recommended us visiting in late June or July.

Expect 15 hours of daylight in June, and warm days! We had days when the temperature hit the 80s (F) and a couple when we experienced downpours and blowing wind. Growing up in Scotland, it reminded me of the ‘4 seasons in one day’ saying!

A storm can brew at any time, but these are less likely in summer.

Is This Nova Scotia Adventure by Road Right for You?

Our itinerary isn't designed to base yourself solely in Halifax, and take day trips by bus or tour group. However, it’s possible to move things around to make it work that way if you prefer.

Overall, this itinerary is a great fit for your Nova Scotia trip if you:

  • are visiting the Canadian Maritime Region for the first time and want a relaxed road trip
  • enjoy a pace of travel built around two-night stays.
  • prefer scenic drives through remote landscapes vs busier attractions and larger cities.
  • love being on the open road, stopping at roadside craft shops, local cafes, and sampling home grown produce at regional farmers markets.
  • you love the idea of arriving and/or departing by Ferry.

You could streamline this itinerary into 9 days if you chose to fly directly into Halifax as you would exclude a night in Yarmouth.

Ferry or Flight to Nova Scotia? Which is Better?

From our experience we don’t believe one is better than the other. As with any trip, we believe it will depend on your available time, budget and preferred interests.

As we were starting our road trip from Boston (MA), USA, we rented our car from that airport. We took a couple of days to drive up to the state of Maine and from here, took the 3.5 hours ferry from Bar Harbor to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia.

However, if you plan on coming from say Europe, take advantage of direct seasonal flights into Halifax, or even Portland, Maine which allows you to experience the ferry trip and places like Arcadia National Park.

Halifax Airport is around a 30-minute drive from the city; it will take a little longer during peak times and summer months. There is a bus service into town - with 5 stops expect this to be around an hour’s journey.

Either way, you need to rent a car to truly experience all that the Canadian Maritimes has to offer!

Visa and ETA Requirements for Canada

Please Check current requirements before you book and travel as laws can often change with little notice.

At the time of our travels, US passport holders do not require a visa or ETA to enter Canada. A valid passport suffices.

UK/EU citizens currently only require to apply for an ETA (eTA) if flying directly into Canada. Apply online - it currently costs $7.

However, if you enter via a USA airport first (eg. Boston) and then take the ferry over to Canada, you will need an ESTA for the USA, but then no Canadian eTA is needed.

Nova Scotia Road Trip

Day 1: Arrival in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

Arriving by ferry from Bar Harbor, Maine — your Nova Scotia adventure begins on the waterfront.

Getting to Nova Scotia By Ferry

The CAT Ferry is a passenger and vehicle ferry and is a comfortable ride over the highest tidal waters in the world - the Bay of Fundy. It leaves Bar Harbor (Maine, USA) and arrives at Yarmouth (Nova Scotia).

It is seasonal, running from May to October and operated by Bay Ferries. The average crossing time is 3.5 hours.

Sunset over Yarmouth Harbour with boats, Nova Scotia

Published sailing schedules for ferries in this part of the world are subject to change due to weather & sometimes other operational reasons.

So, even though you have a 3pm departure, you may well get a phone call or email saying the ferry is now leaving at an earlier time due to rough seas forecasts - this happened to us!

Check for a text message or voice mail too, as well as they use different ways to contact you. Make sure your email/phone number is still correct on your ferry booking form.

🎒 Our Tip

Be fairly close to Bar Harbor the night before in case this happens to you. This is a destination town, so you can find plenty to do, including waterfront dining the night before you sail.

CAT Ferry Basics:

  • You need to show your passport and booking confirmation email before you can drive on.
  • You can’t stay in your vehicle during the sail.
  • Onboard facilities include cafes, shopping, movie & pet area - we found it very comfortable.
  • Some vessels have a tourist style office, with leaflets & information. They also help with questions regarding your plans.
  • These ferries are huge and we had smooth sailing, but if you’re prone to motion sickness, bring a supply of Dramamine pills.
  • If you are planning to rent a car, but haven’t yet done so, you can still book your ferry tickets - just put ‘rental car’ in the vehicle registration section when you book your crossings.

Clearing Customs in Yarmouth

Once the ferry docks, and you drive off, you will be guided by ground staff to a series of waiting lines that lead to the Canadian customs.

We waited around 15 minutes before making it to the kiosk, but it only took a few minutes to get through. You will be asked for your passports, purpose of visit - no different really from when you arrive at an international airport.

🏨 Overnight: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

Because we had originally assumed we wouldn’t arrive until around 6.30pm, we decided to spend our first night in Yarmouth.

This also allowed us a leisurely drive the next morning along the Acadian Shores towards our next destination, Lunenburg.

But back to our arrival. Getting to Yarmouth early meant we had a little extra time so we headed to the Comfort Inn, Yarmouth, dropped off our bags and then returned to the waterfront.

Waterfront harbour views in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

There is a limited choice of restaurants here as it’s a small town. The food at Rudders Seafood & Brewery was pretty decent, although be prepared for a bit of a wait as many passengers turn up around the same time off the ferry.

🎒 Our Tip

Book ferry tickets at least 4-5 months ahead in summer, especially if you’re bringing an RV or car as spaces fill up fast. We booked our tickets on the CAT Ferry Site directly.

Nova Scotia Road Trip

Day 2: Yarmouth to Lunenburg

A leisurely drive along the Acadian Shores and the South Shore Lighthouse Route.

Lunenburg is a popular seaside town mostly visited by day trippers from Halifax, often on tours from the capital.

Lunenburg waterfront, Nova Scotia

We wanted to linger and take our time exploring the South Shore from Yarmouth and so it was a natural first overnight stop.

🏨 Overnight: Lunenburg

We decided to stay here partly because it is a UNESCO heritage site, but also because it is right on the water, and also big enough to have plenty to do on an overnight stay.

Our article on Lunenburg has all our tips and suggestions on how to make the most of your time in this unique Canadian destination.

Day 2 Highlights:

  • Leisurely drive through forest and pristine coastlines.
  • A stop for coffee in Liverpool - a non-touristy, friendly town.
  • Seafood lunch, Shopping, Wine and Sunset stroll in Lunenburg.

If you opt to take the detour for a break in Liverpool, this first stretch is about 157 km (98 miles). We took Highway 103 switching to Route 3 (Lighthouse Route) at times.

Route 3 takes you closer to the coast but does take longer as roads are narrow and twisty in places.

To be honest, we weren’t too sure where to stop for a coffee on leaving Yarmouth. So, we checked our map and since Ruby had lived in Liverpool, England for many years before moving to Suffolk, we thought why not check out another ‘Liverpool’.

We discovered a small town, a little run down in places, but with a cozy coffee shop, and surprisingly a haberdashery with a little bit of everything, including some great souvenirs at very affordable prices.

Plan for around an hour stop including a coffee.

🎒 Our Tip

It’s tempting to want to pop down to every little bay and village along this coast, but we quickly learned distances may be short but the route is long. Picking ‘one’ worked well for us.

Nova Scotia Road Trip

Days 3: Mahone Bay, Peggy’s Cove to Halifax

Continuing the South Shore Lighthouse Route to two of Nova Scotia's most iconic spots.

Our next morning was just as exciting as our previous day, as we made our way on from Lunenburg. Continuing our Nova Scotia South Shore Lighthouse Route, we headed to Mahone Bay and then Peggy’s Cove.

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse on the South Shore, Nova Scotia

Highlights:

  • Sipping a morning coffee in unhurried Mahone Bay
  • Scrambling over the granite boulders that surround Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse
  • Paying respects at the Titanic Graveyard in Halifax

🏨 Overnight: Halifax

Read more on Mahone Bay and Peggy’s Cove itinerary: where to eat, what to do, where to shop, and our favourite photo spots!

And onto we went north towards the capital. Here’s our suggested first afternoon/evening activities to enjoy in Halifax, the metropolis of Nova Scotia, but very navigable and friendly.

Titanic Graveyard & Halifax Explosion Memorials

On arriving in Halifax, we headed first of all to the site of the Titanic Graveyard (one of several) and took time to walk through the somber memorials.

Having been to the Titanic Museum in Northern Ireland, it felt right to pay a visit here.

Titanic Graveyard cemetery in Halifax, Nova Scotia

We also discovered memorials and graves for those who perished in what is called The Halifax Explosion.

In 1917, two ships collided in the harbour, one of which was carrying explosives, creating a massive blast and ‘tsunami’ wave that killed over 1700 people and injured thousands more.

🎒 Our Tip

If it works for your schedule, you might want to visit the Maritime Museum first and then the gravesite. This will help give you insights about some of the passengers & crew who perished, and makes the visit to the memorials perhaps more personal.

Halifax Citadel National Historic Site

  • Fort Open Daily May to November from 9am to 5pm. Grounds open all year. $22 Adults/$18.75 Seniors; Age 6-17 Free.

An iconic sight in Halifax is the hexagonal (from the air) stone structure that actually in some ways, transported us back to Scotland. We heard bagpipes playing and were greeted by kilted guards.

Kilted guards at Halifax Citadel National Historic Site

Of course, the Scottish roots run deep especially in Cape Breton and it was warming to see long held traditions held tightly within the buzz of a modern city.

There is a steep climb up a grassy bank (with steps as the image below shows) but also options for wheelchairs - just ask about this when you book your ticket.

We walked around the walled section and it was enjoyable in the sunshine, but to be honest there wasn’t much else to see here unless you are a history buff interested in military fortress life.

🎒 Our Tip

In summer check Canada Parks online for specific dates when entrance fees are waived for all National parks.

Halifax Waterfront Dining

There are numerous restaurants, bars and waterfront patios to enjoy along the Halifax seafront. Salt + Ash, Salt Yard Social are a couple of the more popular ones, as is Cows ice cream!

Expect touristy quality food in some spots. Overall, we found prices to be higher here than in other towns we visited - pretty typical for capital cities anywhere though.

Downtown Halifax waterfront dining

We ate at Eliot & Vine on the outdoor patio which was a perfect spot for people watching as they promenaded up and down the main thoroughfare.

🎒 Our Tip

If you decide to stay a little of the town center local suburbs, like Armdale where we stayed, can often be real gems at affordable prices.

Nova Scotia Road Trip

Day 4 - Full Day in & Around Halifax

Museums, harbour ferries and a lazy waterfront lunch in Nova Scotia's capital.

The waterfront is definitely a place to explore on foot, with ample pedestrian areas along the shoreline.

There is a useful Waterfront Welcome Kiosk near the Salt Yard Way, where you can pick up a map, or get information on any events.

Here’s what we loved the most and recommend during your visit:

Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

  • Museum Open 9.30am to 4.30pm (8pm Tuesdays). Summer ticket prices: Adults/$11; Seniors/$10; Age 6-17 $6.50.

We hadn’t planned on visiting this initially but decided that we had time to include a peek inside, and actually it was extremely interesting and worthwhile.

Titanic exhibit at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, Halifax

In fact, we ended up spending a couple of hours exploring local history told through the stories passed down by generations, as well as fascinating models of ships that had sailed these waters.

A section of the museum is dedicated to the Titanic Story with exhibits ranging from personal stories, artifacts and models of the ship and its contents. One or two are actually originals, donated by local people who found them as part of the salvage operations.

It was a surprise to us to learn that the originals of many of the ship models on display here were built on the Clyde in Scotland, or Liverpool in Northern England. They were true work horses during the era of early transatlantic trade.

Even British children were evacuated via these vessels during the war time summer of 1940 and cared for in foster homes here in Nova Scotia.

After you are finished inside, your ticket also covers a visit to the CSS Acadia but hours are limited. Best to check on arrival.

🎒 Our Tip

If you are here on a Tuesday entrance is free between 4pm-8pm.

Ferry to Dartmouth, Nova Scotia

  • Ferry Transit Tickets: $3 For Adults/$2.25 Seniors; Age 0-12 Free.
Halifax Transit ferry crossing to Dartmouth

The circular Halifax Transit Ferry connects the capital city with Dartmouth, a mere 15 minutes ride, but a fun one! This is the perfect place to snap a 360-degree view of the harbour area.

There is a road bridge connecting these pieces of land, but it was a nice break from daytime driving (especially as we were headed to Cape Breton the next day).

There was a small market at the port area when we arrived in Dartmouth, but honestly it wasn’t that exciting, so don’t plan your visit for this alone.

However, there are some cute streets, with historic buildings, including an original Quaker Home dating back to 1786, and a few breweries, cafes and shops to peruse.

We visited on a Sunday and some places were closed, but it was still an enjoyable walk for around 30 minutes before returning to the pier and enjoying a leisurely late lunch on the deck of the Wooden Monkey.

Patio at the Wooden Monkey restaurant, Dartmouth

As well as exploring the harbour districts, Maritime District and waterfront shops, we also loved seeing artists and musicians who had pop-ups along the route.

These originals of Peggy’s Cove were quickly another souvenir - at $20 they were such good value, and a unique reminder of our trip so far.

🎒 Our Tip

Your best bet for parking in Halifax is one of the multi-story garages. We used one near to the Marriott Hotel, making it an easy walk from here into the main waterfront action.

🏨 - Overnight: Halifax

Nova Scotia Road Trip

Day 5: Halifax to Baddeck, Cape Breton

A longer driving day with sweet stops along the way to your Cape Breton base.

This is a longer day of driving, but we wanted to get to Baddeck vs stay overnight enroute.

We didn’t find as much in New Glasgow as we had hoped for but as usual, small hidden gems appear during travel when you least expect them.

A tiny little coffee shop called The Coffee Bean had delicious traditional oatcakes and as we say in Scotland ‘fine pieces’ (lovely cakes) - the staff were a delight so we chatted here for an hour.

Our next brief stop was just over the Canso Causeway (this connects Nova Scotia and Cape Breton) at a tourist shop full of jams, tartan - and all things Scottish!

We resisted the temptation to spurge here, knowing we had 2 days ahead and that Cape Breton is famous for its arts and crafts.

After crossing the causeway, it is 87km (54 miles) - a 1 hour drive) to Baddeck, a central base from which to start exploring Cape Breton Island.

A little further on, we couldn’t resist stopping at The Farmer’s Daughter in Whycocomagh. We will admit this was mainly because of the entertaining billboards advertising this as a unique spot.

Enjoying ice cream at the Farmers Daughter country store

It was perhaps around 1pm - so we indulged in homemade ice-cream, some more cookies (for later of course) and it was good to simply stretch our legs for 30 minutes or so.

Afternoon/Evening Activities

We arrived in Baddeck around 3pm, so had time to stroll through this small traditional town, with more stunning sea views, small bed and breakfasts/hotels, and family style restaurants.

Just south of town (actually you can walk to it from town), is a small museum dedicated to the famous inventor of the telephone, and many other patents as we discovered.

Alexander Graham Bell Historic Site

  • Free (during summer months, similar to other Canada Parks). For opening hours check the Alexander Bell Site.

In addition to a well-presented storyboard of his life, you can see exhibits of other patents, ideas and mock ups of how life would have been centuries back in Nova Scotia.

Baddeck Village Hall Ceilidh

This was another ‘last minute’ find! As we strolled around, we saw a local fiddle performance advertised in the local parish hall. A quick call to book our tickets and we were in! Here’s the actual hall to look out for:

The small hall was packed; our local musician entertainers were tremendous and we quickly felt like locals hanging out together having a good time.

Read our Cape Breton drive article for more details on Baddeck, this evening event, where to eat dinner, and the top sunset waterfront spots here.

🏨 Overnight: Baddeck

Nova Scotia Road Trip

Day 6 - Cabot Trail Drive, Cape Breton

A spectacular day driving one of the world's great coastal roads.

This was a special day, and one we had planned into our visit from the start. True to its reputation, we had a spectacular drive around the sheer cliffs drops that form the peninsula’s coastline.

Our Cape Trail guide (mentioned above) has everything you need to know to make the most of this as a day trip. You can also read why we decided to drive anti-clockwise on this route.

Visitor lookout over the coast on the Cabot Trail, Cape Breton

🏨 Overnight: Baddeck

The sound of a 298 km (185 miles) may seem daunting in a day, but we found the pace a good fit, stopping as we wanted to along the way.

There is no charge to drive the Cabot Trail. However, you might need to pay at certain times of the year if you want to visit the Highland National Park.

Nova Scotia Road Trip

Days 7-8: Wolfville - Wineries & Tidal Waters

Two nights in the Annapolis Valley with vineyards and the Bay of Fundy tides on your doorstep.

Take your time on the drive back from Baddeck, with a stop for lunch near Truro. You have to leave the main route to go into the town, so if you’re keen to get to Wolfville, maybe just select a comfort stop that fits your needs nearer the highway.

Loving wines, we couldn’t let a trip to Nova Scotia pass without visiting several wineries.

Wolfville is the best place to stay while you explore the first set of tasting rooms (our second was in Bear River, south of Annapolis Royal, and nearer to Digby).

Welcome sign for the town of Wolfville, Nova Scotia

Our Favourite Wineries in Wolfville Area

We visited 6 different vineyards. Find out more details on each on our Annapolis Valley drive route.

Vineyard and farm landscape in Nova Scotia road trip scenery Red British telephone box in the middle of a vineyard

Our top votes went to:

  • Lightfoot & Wolfville - Spacious outdoor seating area with uninterrupted views over vines to the water.
  • Benjamin Bridge - where they encourage filling your glass and taking a short walk down to the riverside!
  • Luckett Vineyards - who expects a red British phone box in the middle of a vineyard?

Tidal Water Viewing

Wolfville is also perfectly positioned to watch the Bay of Fundy tidal flows. In fact, no driving is required to appreciate the tidal scale here.

Just next to our hotel there was a floating platform where you could climb down to sea level and see the water levels shifting in real time.

People on the tidal dock watching the water levels in Wolfville

Within Wolfville there are several dining options on main street. We chose The Church across from our hotel, a very interesting old building and yes it did used to be a place of worship.

🏨 Overnight: Wolfville

Nova Scotia Road Trip

Days 9-10: Annapolis Royal

History, markets and wine in one of Canada's most historic towns.

The drive down to Annapolis Royal from Wolfville is around 67 miles, and is straightforward. Allow for 1.5 hours.

This town has changed rulers many times since its initial existence. As a result, the whole area has a unique culture to explore. Today there are also local markets, many restaurants and leisurely walks through town and beyond.

Our terrific bed and breakfast Grand Oak Manor was just across the causeway at Granville Ferry - it took us 5 minutes to drive into Annapolis Royal.

Sundeck on the Annapolis Royal waterfront

Here’s what we enjoyed the most during our 2 days and what we recommend planning into your Nova Scotia self-drive vacation.

Highlights:

  • Farmers Market & Historic Town Walking Tour
  • Port Royal Habitation & Military Fort Site
  • Bear River Village and Wine Tasting

🏨 Overnight: Annapolis Royal (2 nights)

Bear River Town & Wineries

You can either take an afternoon and visit from Granville Ferry/Annapolis Royal, or stop on your way to the ferry at Digby depending on your schedule and preferences.

Plan to spend an hour or so in town browsing little stores, having a coffee and viewing the stilt homes.

Then head to one of the two wineries - we flipped a coin and headed to Bear River, with beautiful views over the valley.

Dining Options in Annapolis Royal Area

We found some fun spots, mostly recommended by locals and we particularly liked:

  • The Crow’s Nest - seafood galore;
  • Bistro East - on Main Street with sea views.
  • Mad Hatter Wine Bar - water facing Outdoor patio.

Read more about each of these highlights in our detailed Wolfville, Bear River & Annapolis Royal guide.

Nova Scotia Road Trip

Day 11 - Digby & Ferry to St John, Canada

Lobster boats, scallops and a final taste of Nova Scotia before the ferry home.

The drive from Granville Ferry to Digby is around 30 minutes, and so if you have a late ferry crossing, you’ll have time to squeeze in a last Nova Scotia experience.

After so many tiny harbours, small villages and towns, Digby seemed quite large as we drove into it. There is a modern section initially, but keep going towards the seafront where there is ample parking adjacent to the main seawall.

Waterfront boardwalk with a seaside restaurant in Digby, Nova Scotia

We had expected to find more going on in Digby but it sadly some parts felt a little tired and rundown even though the sun was shining and the coastline is stunning.

The main seawall and boardwalk with outdoor decks is lovely though to sit out on.

We took a 20 minute or so walk over to the picturesque working harbour and timed it right because a lobster fishing boat was unloading.

The guys on the boat were friendly and quite happy for us to take photos and watch the process of transferring the catch from the trawler to the ice boxes on the truck.

Freshly caught live lobsters in Digby, Nova Scotia

Whale Watching

Digby is also known for whale watching trips, so in theory you could book an early morning trip before your ferry.

As we’d done this on our Cabot Trail itinerary, we didn’t consider this option, but it’s very popular, especially from Brier Island.

Visit Maud Lewis Home

The ladies in the visitor center in Digby suggested we go visit this reconstructed home where the famous painter lived. If you’re unfamiliar with her story, there’s even a movie out about her life.

Folk art painted cottage, replica of Maud Lewis home

The home is tiny but cute and maintained by her family. It’s totally an honor system if you visit and buy anything that’s listed for sale.

Scallop Capital of the World

So, since the 1920s Scallops have ruled in Digby and it seems the world agrees. Ruby said they were the most delicious she’d ever had and the salmon was super tasty too.

Seared scallop dinner in Digby, Nova Scotia

We ate at Dockside Restaurant and Bar, sitting outside with our final waterside views before we boarded the ferry. It was sitting here that we reflected on the incredible fresh seafood, throughout the trip, with wine and ice-cream close behind!

If you’re a foodie, you will totally love the tastes around Nova Scotia.

MV Rose Fundy Ferry Trip

The return sailing was so smooth and with a light wind, a little shorter than the advertised 2.5 hours.

As we lined up to drive on, truckers (lorries) full of seafood joined us and we wondered where they were headed - New York said many of the locals!

Once we disembarked in St John, we stayed at a convenient Travel Lodge (Wyndham).

From this point, it’s an easy drive to Portland or back to Boston. Alternatively, if you’re flying home from Halifax, it’s around 2.5 hours drive from Digby to the airport terminal.

Places to Stay On Our Canadian Drive

On this trip we generally stayed in comfortable mid-range hotels and guesthouses, paying between £120- £300 per night, with the highest prices in Halifax and the best value in Annapolis Royal area.

LocationRecommended Accommodation
Yarmouth (1 night) 📍$$ Comfort Inn - functional and near to the ferry terminal, we found this perfectly adequate for a night’s stay. Complimentary breakfast.

📍$$ Lakelawn B&B Motel - also close to the CAT Ferry terminal, on a lakeside and a hearty breakfast is included.
Lunenburg (1 night) 📍$$ Salt Shaken Deli & Inn - central apartment style rooms above a popular deli restaurant with kitchen facilities. We didn’t cook during our stay but our rooms were comfy!

📍$$$ Lunenburg Arms Hotel & Spa - also within walking distance of everything, with the added treat of a spa, and deluxe Harbour View rooms.
Halifax (2 nights) 📍VRBOs Halifax - often in suburbs and quieter than city central, giving you a glimpse into local life. We did this and got better value & saw a less touristy side of Halifax.

📍$$$ The Sutton Place Hotel - a modern high rise with all the sights within a short walk, and rooftop patio if you prefer to watch the world go by and just relax.
Baddeck (2 nights) 📍$$ The Dunlop Inn - in the heart of Baddeck, this popular Bed and Breakfast blends tradition and service.

📍$$$ Inverary Resort - with Bras d’Or Lake shore views, and a short walk into Baddeck, this resort & Spa offers everything from water adventures to sauna relaxation.
Wolfville (2 nights) 📍$$ Hotel Wolfville - on the Main Street, and adjacent to the tidal coastline, we enjoyed this apartment stay. Rooms were well equipped /functional, and the location was great.

📍$$$ Blomidon Inn - also on Main Street, this is a more traditional hotel, with a relaxing outdoor terrace & a range of facilities. Guests highly rate their breakfasts.
Annapolis Royal (2 nights) 📍$$ Grand Oak Manor B&B - one of the nicest bed and breakfasts we’ve stayed at & a historic house too. Our freshly cooked breakfasts reflected genuine hospitality.

📍$$$ Queen Anne Inn - go back in time staying in this Victorian era mansion in the centre of Annapolis Royal. Each room here is individually styled - luxury awaits.

Click here for more Nova Scotia accommodation options

Our Car Rental - Consider Before You Book

Our experience: We rented a Toyota Camry - a mid-size hybrid car - there isn’t any requirement for a 4x4/SUV as most roads are paved. Over our trip we averaged around 45-50 miles per gallon, making gas for our trip surprisingly reasonable.

What We Spent on Rental & Fuel

  • Vehicle: Hybrid rental car - $1300 (we reserved it in the USA)
  • Main Route: Yarmouth → Lunenburg → Halifax → Baddeck → Wolfville → Annapolis → Digby - around 1200 miles (1900 km).
  • Fuel costs: Canadian ($220). FYI, fuel is sold by the litre.

Hybrid rental car - Worth the Upgrade?

Yes! Similar to our summer road trip in North Scotland, it worked out cheaper to hire a hybrid. Although these vehicles can cost more up front, again the fuel savings were significant over the 10 days.

Driving in Canada: Laws, Rules & Etiquette

We brought our rental car over on the Ferry from Maine (USA) and it was a breeze. Whether you choose to do this or fly in, here’s what we found important to know before hitting the road.

  • Always drive on the right.
  • Seat Belts are required by law.
  • Canada uses kilometers not miles.
  • Speed limits are 80-100km (Highways) and 50 Km in towns
  • Petrol (Gas) stations are plentiful but always keep your tank at least half full. Most accept credit card payments.
  • Nova Scotia 511 App will give you real time road traffic updates, useful if major construction is going on.
  • Parking is generally free at sites like Peggy’s Cove and smaller towns. Expect to pay in Halifax & Lunenburg.
  • The wildlife here can stray onto the roads so be mindful of deer and moose at twilight - luckily, we didn’t have any cross our path!
🎒 Our Tip

It’s worth downloading a map as back up because there are spots when signals might drop out, especially in more remote areas like Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

FAQs

Is Nova Scotia a good place to visit?

Nova Scotia is a unique destination if you enjoy less crowded places with natural beauty, fantastic seafood, small towns and a hard to describe blend of Arcadian, Scottish and Canadian cultures.

Where can I see whales in Nova Scotia?

To see whales in Nova Scotia, visit between May and October, with the peak times mid-June to August. Tours from Brier Island in Bay of Fundy are highest rated, although Cape Breton also has numerous boats sailing daily to catch sight of these ocean giants. Choose from Pleasant Bay and Cheticamp.

Is Nova Scotia expensive to visit?

Nova Scotia prices for tourists are reasonable in comparison to many other Canadian destinations. The main costs are accommodation which peaks in mid-summer, and gas/petrol in more remote regions.

Is 10 Days to tour Nova Scotia too rushed?

In our experience, you can slow down your pace of travel while seeing the majority of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton. Don’t worry about trading off relaxation with long daily drives - we found we had ample time for both.

Bucket List Worthy & Affordable Canada

So, we hope you now have a great framework to start planning your own trip from coastal towns, through wild highlands, onto great tidal bays and hidden harbours.

Not predictable road trip travel — more a well-paced, slightly adventurous road trip that many of us are searching for these days.

Finally, to help you kick off your plans, take a minute to check the best flight routes from your nearest airport to Boston, Portland Maine USA, or directly to Halifax using our links below.

Ruby Greggor Jude Luberski
By Ruby Greggor & Jude Luberski