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If you are planning a trip to Nova Scotia, and taking in the South Shore or Halifax, you’ll want to make sure you don’t miss out on some of the best places to visit in this region.
Three of Nova Scotia's most picturesque coastal destinations can easily be combined into a short itinerary: the colourful historic town of Lunenburg, charming Mahone Bay and the iconic fishing village of Peggy's Cove.
Our recent Nova Scotia roadtrip took in all three places so in this article, we give you information on what to see and do in each place, the route we travelled between them and how we'd recommend doing it. We also include distances, where to stay, eating spots and what we’d do differently!
Our Route
We arrived into Nova Scotia by ferry from Bar Harbour, Maine (USA), so our journey to Lunenburg started from the coastal town of Yarmouth.
Route Map from Yarmouth to Halifax shows how our three stops fitted into the South Shore Road Trip.
Yarmouth ⇨ Lunenburg ⇨ 🏨stay overnight ⇨
Mahone Bay ⇨ Peggy’s Cove ⇨ Halifax.
However, with the airport Halifax serving international flights, if arriving into Nova Scotia by plane, you’ll complete this route the other way round.
It doesn't matter - what does matter is making sure you don’t miss out on visiting these three ‘must-see’ places.
Planning your time between Lunenburg, Mahone Bay & Peggy's Cove
Our table below will help you plan your time. We’ve based our driving time going in the direction from Yarmouth to Halifax. Obviously, just reverse it if you are travelling in the opposite way.
However, whichever route you are on, note that Lunenburg is definitely worthy of an overnight stay - maybe even two nights if your schedule allows. The other two places can easily be combined together as a day trip.
| Destination | Time Needed | We recommend |
|---|---|---|
| Lunenburg | 1-2 days | Stay overnight |
| Mahone Bay | 2-3 hours | Day visit |
| Peggy’s Cove | 2-3 hours | Day Visit |
| Driving from | Arriving at | Distance | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Yarmouth | Lunenburg | 227km | 2 hr 30 mins |
| Lunenburg | Mahone Bay | 12km | 15 mins |
| Mahone Bay | Peggy’s Cove | 86km | 1 hr 10 mins |
| Peggy’s Cove | Halifax | 43km | 50 mins |
Lunenburg - Nova Scotia’s Colourful Historic Town
Why visit Lunenburg?
Isn’t it great when you just get a warm feeling about a place as soon as you arrive - it was like this with Lunenburg. From the moment we headed into the town, we were so glad we had booked overnight accommodation.
Although we knew Lunenburg had UNESCO World Heritage status, actually seeing its picturesque waterfront, the colourful wooden buildings and feeling the general relaxed atmosphere from the start, we knew we were going to have a fabulous experience.
Oh, and if you love photography, you will start snapping straight away as every corner seems to offer a unique sight!
Exploring Old Town Lunenburg
You don’t need an itinerary or even a map to explore Lunenburg as it’s not a large town. It’s very easy to walk everywhere and that’s just what we did.
We simply took our time to explore the harbour area and wander along the main streets popping into galleries, cafes and shops along the way.
Here’s what we enjoyed the most and what we recommend you do:
Stroll the waterfront
This is the heart of the town and one of the nicest places to spend some time. You’ll find a delightful harbour with a range of boats in it.
Some are working vessels, others private yachts and some are for tourists looking to book a cruise or try deep sea fishing.
We found ourselves returning to the harbour throughout our short stay at different times of the day. The waterfront with the coloured chairs was our spot to sit at and snap sunset and sunrise photos. Hard to beat if the weather is on your side.
Go aboard the Bluenose II
One of Lunenburg's most famous sights is an exact replica of the famous Canadian fishing and racing schooner Bluenose.
This replica was built in Lunenburg at a local boatyard. You can go on board, take a deck tour or even book a harbour cruise when it is in port.
In case you’re wondering what makes the Bluenose special, well, the original Bluenose (launched in 1921) remained undefeated in racing for the International Fishermen's Trophy. Sadly, It is no longer in existence as it sank to the sea during a storm in 1946 near Haiti.
So, the replica was thus built to preserve the country’s maritime heritage and it even features on the Canadian ten-cent coin!
It’s not always in Lunenburg as the vessel visits other ports along the coast. Check the schedule for Bluenose 11 in advance and time your visit accordingly, if this is a ‘must see’.
Visit the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic
This museum, also on the waterfront, hosts exhibitions about the famous vessels and the fishing communities of Nova Scotia.
You’ll find out more about the Bluenose, marine history and kids will enjoy various interactive activities.
We found about an hour here to enough make your visit worthwhile.
Open - daily 9:30 - 5pm
Closed - late October - May
Check official dates on their website.
Entrance fee - adults $15, children (aged 6-17) $4
Under 5’s FREE
Family tickets and concessions available.
The Salt Store Gift Shop by the museum entrance is popular with visitors and anyone can shop here.
Reflect at the ‘Lost at Sea’ Memorial
As you stroll the waterfront, you will spot a circular monument which has 8 pillars positioned at each point of a compass. This is a memorial to remember those lost at sea.
In the centre, is a four sided column with the quote “Dedicated to the memory of those who have gone down to the sea in ships and who have never returned and as a tribute to those who continue to occupy their business in the great waters.”
An annual memorial service takes place each year to remember these sailors. It’s quite sombering as you read down the names, especially when you see surnames of the same family.
It is a living monument, as names continue to be added as tragedy strikes. A definite reminder of the power of the sea.
Enjoy fresh, local seafood for lunch
As we walked around Lunenburg, there were several cafes and eating places to choose from. The one that caught our eye most was The Half Shell Oysters & Seafood and I must say, we were not disappointed! Location wise, it’s on the High Street, but looks over the waterfront.
This place is extremely popular with both locals and visitors so if you haven’t booked, then expect to queue. We waited about 15 minutes and luckily were offered a seat at the bar.
We were hoping for a table, but to be honest the bar ended up being a great spot as we were able to see the chefs expertly prepare dishes and we were right in front of the daily catch!
The signature dishes were oysters, scallops and of course, lobster! We chose oysters - and the verdict - best we’ve ever had so we ordered a second portion!
Try their local wines
We recommend Benjamin Bridge Rose wine. (In fact we liked this wine so much, we visited their winery later in Annapolis and bought some to take home!)
🎒Our Tip: In peak season, book in advance and ask for a harbour view table. If the Bluenose is in port, you’ll be directly opposite it.
Room for an Ice-cream
As lovers of ice-cream, Lunenburg is a perfect place to indulge in a scoop or two.
Head to Sweet Treasures Confectionary on Montague Street and pick your favourite flavour from this family owned shop.
Browse the shops
There are several independent boutiques, small galleries and gift stores in Lunenburg that are fun to browse in. Most are either on Montague Street or Lincoln Street.
For something different, look out for locally made jewellery, Canadian art and home decor. It’s not a shopper’s paradise but you may well spot a unique reminder of your time in this UNESCO town.
Why stay overnight in Lunenburg?
Having read what there is to see and do in Lunenburg, staying overnight makes sense.
Whilst, one day will allow you to see the highlights, staying overnight and having two days will enable you to explore the waterfront at different times of the day.
You can browse the shops at a more leisurely pace returning later to make purchases or stop for that extra cup of coffee.
And if that wasn’t enough, of course, there is the food! You can take in both lunch and dinner and experience Lunenburg after the day-trippers have left.
The Salt Shaker Deli restaurant was excellent - salmon with walnut salad cooked perfectly.
We really enjoyed just sitting on the colourful ‘Adirondack’ chairs with a glass of wine and very few people around (even in high season!!)watching the sun slowly disappear for the day.
Where to stay in Lunenburg
If you are only staying one night, we recommend staying in the historic center of town rather than outside. It’s relaxing just to be able to stroll the waterfront and walk back to your guest house. This is especially preferable if you’re the driver!
As well as eating here, we also stayed at Salt Shaker Deli & Inn, on Montague Street, right in the heart of Lunenburg and just steps from the waterfront. Rooms were spacious and individual.
Everything was an easy walking distance from here, so once we'd arrived there was really no need to get back in the car.
To sum up staying here :
- 📍 Excellent central location
- 🌊 Harbour views
- 🍽️ Restaurant downstairs
- 🛏️ Only four rooms
- 🚗 Street/town parking nearby
- ⚠️ Stairs only – no lift
This was a lovely guest house and one we would recommend to you, and return to ourselves!
Check and book other accommodation options here.Parking in Lunenburg
We were lucky enough to be able to park directly outside our accommodation in Lunenburg.
Even though there was a parking meter, our host said, ‘Don’t worry - if they give you a ticket I’ll pay it myself - no-one gets tickets round here!’
Well, not sure if that is the case, but we were fine. 😀
Our advice is to check parking where you are staying. From what we could see, fees are $2 per hour, free after 5pm to 10am and free on Sundays and statutory holidays.
Mahone Bay - The Village of Three Churches
What’s fantastic about Mahone Bay is its proximity to Lunenburg - only a 15 minute drive. Also, as it’s on the way to Peggy’s Cove, it’s a natural stop to make.
Mahone Bay is smaller and more village-like than Lunenburg but still on the coast.
With its picturesque waterfront, three churches, colourful buildings and independent shops, it’s best explored just walking around.
We recommend staying 1-2 hours around here.
What to See and Do in Mahone Bay
Stroll the Waterfront and enjoy the scenery
Moored boats will be bobbing in the bay. It’s such a pretty spot to relax for a bit. We enjoyed simply soaking in the sunshine at the picnic benches with our morning coffee.
Visit the Three Churches of Mahone Bay
These three churches namely, St. James’ Anglican, St. John’s Evangelical Lutheran and Trinity United, form one of Mahone Bay’s most recognisable views.
We enjoyed admiring them from the waterfront as we strolled but you can go inside to appreciate their different architecture and learn more about the history of the communities they served.
They are particularly photogenic when the sun is out and their images reflected in the bay.
Explore the quirky streets of Mahone Bay
One thing we particularly loved about Mahone Bay were the houses, shops and architecture in general. Each was so unique and inviting with their signs, gardens and decor.
There aren’t many stores and really only one main road but we enjoyed browsing and ambling amongst the colourful buildings.
You’ll find local homewares and gifts in the small independent shops. Just like Lunenburg, it's a good place to pick up something a little different from usual souvenirs.
We had a good old potter in ‘Chris’s Convenience Store’!
Enjoy breakfast, morning coffee or lunch at a local cafe
We can recommend The Barn Coffee and Social House in Mahone Bay which specialises in ethically sourced coffee and a fabulous range of pastries and cakes. The coffee was indeed excellent.
The building is a restored heritage barn and with seating both in and out, it caters for all weathers! Some beautiful local artwork and pottery is also on display and available for purchase.
Spill the Tea is another option if you prefer tea. Its garden outside overlooks the bay so it’s a popular choice.
🎒Our Tip: If it is a warm day, order your coffee and pastries as a take out and then stroll down to the picnic bench on the waterfront.
Parking in Mahone Bay
We parked at the Barn Cafe and then just walked down the main street to the waterfront.
Free public parking is available throughout the town but check any signs for seasonal or day-time limits.
Peggy’s Cove - Home of Nova Scotia’s Iconic Lighthouse
From Mahone Bay, our drive to Peggy’s Cove was about an hour.
It’s a pleasant coastal route around St Margaret’s Bay and through some small pretty villages.
As we drove into Peggy’s Cove area, we instantly spotted the lighthouse in the distance. There is a large visitors car park close to the cove and lighthouse area so it’s easiest to park there and then explore on foot.
We did pay a small amount for parking and it’s useful to note there are also toilets here (there is a $1 charge).
There is a lot more to see at Peggy’s Cove than just a lighthouse.
Although that’s the star attraction, we equally enjoyed wandering around the working fishing village and harbour area as well as popping into small galleries .
🎒Our Tip: Although, It’s an easy stroll to the lighthouse and around the various sights, wear comfortable shoes with tread as you’ll need that for walking over the granite rocks.
What to see and do at Peggy’s Cove
Visit Peggy’s Point Lighthouse
The lighthouse here dates back to 1916 and is one of the most photographed landmarks not only in Nova Scotia but also in Canada. Although you can’t actually go inside the lighthouse, this doesn't distract from the experience.
There’s lots of information boards to read more about the history and geology as you walk. It’s an easy stroll down to the lighthouse on wide paths and then across smooth wide granite slabs.
We really enjoyed simply walking across the giant rocks and taking in views of the Atlantic. It helped that we had glorious weather but even so, respect the environment.
The ocean waves commonly splash upon the rocks so take care not to get too close. Stick to the dry, white granite ones.
If you are less mobile, they have viewing platforms with ramps and handrails.
Wander around Peggy’s Cove Fishing Village
On the way to the lighthouse, you’ll pass by several small shops and the harbour. Depending on the weather, you may choose to browse in these locally owned gift shops first and then head to the lighthouse.
It doesn’t really matter -just do whatever works best on the day. Hags on the Hill had beautiful local craft pieces from jewellery to knits and prints.
And if you enjoy art, pop into the William E Degarthe Gallery. William was a much loved artist of Nova Scotia who created paintings and sculpture of maritime life.
He died in 1983 but as Peggy’s Cove was one of his favourite places, this gallery displays 65 pieces of his work (kindly donated by his wife).
By the gallery, look out for a 100ft carving he made of 32 fisherman. It’s very impressive.
The tiny harbour is incredibly picturesque with its stilted wooden buildings, lobster nets and fishing boats bobbing in the water. Don’t ask how many photographs we took here - yes quite a lot. Soak up the atmosphere!
By the harbour, there is a kiosk selling boat tours.
These range from a 20 minute excursion around the lighthouse area to longer ones lasting 90 minutes going further out to spot seals, turtles, puffins and other marine life.
They are seasonal, and weather dependent, but something you may choose to do as an extra activity. We didn’t go on one as we were on a time schedule to get to Halifax but it’s definitely an option.
Eating at Peggy’s Cove
If you’re feeling peckish, then there are a couple of dining choices we’d recommend to suit all palettes.
For a full meal head to The Souwester where their menu offers a wide range of dishes from lobster rolls to club sandwiches. They do serve breakfasts and coffees too so check their menu out.
Tom’s Lobster Shack is also highly rated and of course serves lobster but other snacks like smoked salmon bagels and salads.
For something simpler, like fries and ice-cream, try, Hunky Dory, a popular take-out eatery. There’s picnic benches nearby to sit and enjoy whatever you indulge in!
Why is it called Peggy’s Cove?
Yes, we wondered about this too and there are different versions as to why.
Some say that it’s because the cove sits at the mouth of St Margaret’s Bay and Peggy is a nickname for Margaret.
However, we prefer the more romantic version and if you’re a lover of romance too, you’re going to like this.
So the tale goes that young Peggy was on a boat travelling to Halifax to meet her finance. The boat crashed on the rocks by the cove.
Peggy was rescued by local folk and when visitors were going to see her, they would say they were going to see ‘Peggy of the Cove’ and she became quite famous as a result.
We don’t know the outcome of this tale, but of course we want the rom-com ending so we're assuming that true love prevailed and Peggy and her fiance were reunited and lived happily ever after! Aww!
Peggy’s Cove really was one of our favourite places in Nova Scotia - make sure you add it to your itinerary.
🎒Our Tip: Visiting Peggy’s Cove is a very popular excursion with tour buses leaving from both Lunenburg and Halifax. To avoid tour groups and make parking easier, aim to arrive outside of the peak hours 11am to 3pm.
What we’d do differently
Spend more time in Lunenburg
We arrived in Lunenburg around lunchtime and only stayed one night leaving the next morning. This was because we had planned to arrive in Halifax the following afternoon but also wanted to visit Mahone Bay and Peggy’s Cove on the way.
Yes we saw the highlights in Lunenburg but to make the most of this pretty UNESCO town, a little longer would have been nice.
You can still just stay one night if time is tight, but perhaps arrive earlier in the morning and leave later the following day to give you that full 24 hours.
🎒Our Tip: Halifax is a big city and busy compared to Lunenburg so rather than rush to get there, we’d slow down and have dinner in one of the coastal villages.
FAQ’s
Can you visit Lunenburg, Mahone Bay and Peggy’s Cove in one day?
Technically yes and there are organised trips that offer this.. However, it would be a rushed experience to do so whether you’re on a tour or doing this independently. Lunenburg, in particular, deserves a full day..
When is the best time to visit Lunenburg, Mahone Bay and Peggy’s Cove?
Summer time offers the warmest weather and longest days but is also the busiest season. That said, we visited mid July and it never felt that busy.
Book accommodation in advance though and visit Peggy’s Cove earlier or later in the day. Late spring and early autumn are good alternatives with fewer visitors.
Do you need a car to visit Lunenburg, Mahone Bay and Peggy’s Cove?
Having your own transport makes visiting these three places easier as public transport between them is limited.
Is Peggy’s Cove worth visiting?
Yes. It’s much more than a lighthouse. The working harbour is one of Nova Scotia’s most memorable sights featured in paintings, postcards and prints.
With boat trips on offer, the rugged coastline to enjoy and a selection of eating places, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Ready to check out what else Nova Scotia has to offer?
We visited Lunenburg, Mahone Bay and Peggy’s Cove as part of 10 Days in Nova Scotia.. Without doubt, they are all worth a visit and we are certainly glad we included them on our itinerary.
We also drove to the Cape Breton region of Nova Scotia on this trip which was another highlight. The trail is one of the most celebrated coastal drives in the world and having done it, we can see why.
Check out our Cabot Trail article for more information.
And if unique road trips are your thing, we have plenty of inspiration to share with you. Browse and take your pick from destinations including - St Lucia to Costa Rica, Lefkada or Scotland and more! Happy driving!
